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Routes in Second Buttress

Angles Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back for Seconds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Top project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Chucky Cheese T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Rotten T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey through Gwondonaland T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left End Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mathematical Progressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Needs a Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Slap Happy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Whatever T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 178 total, 1/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on May 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

For the sake of clarity, I am only going to describe the 1st pitch and hope that those more currently informed will add in details of the other two pitches. When looking at the 2nd Buttress from down river, there are two prominent geologic features: a HUGE roof system and a big, left-facing, left-leaning corner system. The big corner is 'Angles Away'. It is obvious and easy to get to.

From the *Sugar Cube, scramble up to the flat rocks at the base of the routes 'Angles Away' and 'Needs a Bolt'. The 1st pitch of 'Angles Away' is an acute angle dihedral with the right face overhanging steeply and the left face kicked back less than vertical. Once you're into the heart of it all, the name of the route will be abundantly clear. The gear is solid but a wee bit tricky, and the climbing is thoughtful. Some would invariable call this 1st pitch 5.10, but I think all things considered that 9+ is more correct.

  • The Sugar Cube is the aptly named chunk of stone right at the parking area for the 2nd Buttress. The Sugar Cube has some fun bouldering on it. While you are there, use your knowledge of geometry, geology, and physics to imagine where the cube started from.

Protection

Thin pro, mostly wireds and some tri-cams, though up higher some mid sized pieces can be found. The pro is good but you have to hang and tinker it in.

Photos

phil broscovak
  5.11a
phil broscovak  
  5.11a
9+ /10- for the first pitch and 11+/12- for the second pitch. Aug 6, 2013
Jamie Estep
Crested Butte, CO
 
Jamie Estep   Crested Butte, CO
 
I would say 5.9 first pitch, 5.10+ for pitch 2. The dihedral is far more tricky to protect than one would think. Feb 17, 2011
phil broscovak
  5.11a
phil broscovak  
  5.11a
The picture of chuck is on the crux of the 2nd pitch which is significantly harder than the 1st pich. May 30, 2005