Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 280 total · 1/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on May 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

For the sake of clarity, I am only going to describe the 1st pitch and hope that those more currently informed will add in details of the other two pitches. When looking at the 2nd Buttress from down river, there are two prominent geologic features: a HUGE roof system and a big, left-facing, left-leaning corner system. The big corner is 'Angles Away'. It is obvious and easy to get to.

From the *Sugar Cube, scramble up to the flat rocks at the base of the routes 'Angles Away' and 'Needs a Bolt'. The 1st pitch of 'Angles Away' is an acute angle dihedral with the right face overhanging steeply and the left face kicked back less than vertical. Once you're into the heart of it all, the name of the route will be abundantly clear. The gear is solid but a wee bit tricky, and the climbing is thoughtful. Some would invariable call this 1st pitch 5.10, but I think all things considered that 9+ is more correct.

  • The Sugar Cube is the aptly named chunk of stone right at the parking area for the 2nd Buttress. The Sugar Cube has some fun bouldering on it. While you are there, use your knowledge of geometry, geology, and physics to imagine where the cube started from.

Protection

Thin pro, mostly wireds and some tri-cams, though up higher some mid sized pieces can be found. The pro is good but you have to hang and tinker it in.

Photos