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Routes in Second Buttress

Angles Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back for Seconds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Top project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Chucky Cheese T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Rotten T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey through Gwondonaland T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left End Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mathematical Progressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Needs a Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Slap Happy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Whatever T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 325 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hard old trad guys
Page Views: 2,332 total, 18/month
Shared By: aaron voreis on May 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is an excellent, 3 pitch, trad adventure for everybody!

P1. Climb the left-facing corner. Climb face to hand crack then squeeze through chimney. Belay on large bushy ledge, 5.8+.

P2. Pull juggy roof or climb around on easy terrain to small ledge with a bomber stopper placement. Continue up steep clean rock with crack and face moves. Move left and then right on easier terrain to small stance with bolted belay. Do not go right to the large ledge system, 5.8.

P3. Climb straight up belay using either crack to choice of finishes. The left way is better. Take wild cracks to top of buttress, 5.8+.

Enjoy!

Location

Walk uphill towards the big tree from the right corner of the parking lot at the base of the second buttress. A huge, left-facing corner chimney marks the start.

Descend by scrambling over top of buttress and hiking down the back side.

Protection

Standard trad rack to a #4 Camalot.

Photos

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kpbo
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8 PG13
kpbo   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8 PG13
What a stellar route! Seems popular, and deservedly so - good idea to get there early!

A few notes:

P1: the bulge may look intimidating but makes for a super fun layback - don't be tempted to try and wedge into the chimney! The move can be protected with a #4 Camalot (or maybe a #5?), but these big cams won't be of much use above this point.

P2: fun moves off the ledge. I found the pro to be a little run out in parts but over sections of easy climbing.

P3: we went left. Awesome fins/flakes/jugs.

N.B. We decided to rap off, following the instructions posted above. When descending from the anchors at the top of P2 to the anchors at the top of Back For Seconds, our 60m rope just barely made it - i.e., my brake hand was at the end knots of my rope (you remembered to knot your rope ends, right??) and was just barely able to clip the anchors at full stretch. If I were to rap this route again, I'd either (a) bring a 70m rope, (b) build a gear anchor at the ledge to safely belay to the final anchor station, or (c) walk off the top. Oct 3, 2016
matthew
Gunnison, Colorado
 
matthew   Gunnison, Colorado
 
Looks like someone did end up bolting the top of pitch 3. It is bolted below where the rope used to be. It looks good for the left version but is pretty bad for the right variation. If you are going to do the right variation, I would bring some rope with you to put around the boulder where the rope used to be and that you don't mind leaving along with a leaver biner, or just build an anchor and walk off. May 22, 2014
Scott Krankkala
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott Krankkala   Flagstaff, AZ
I think some rap anchors up there would be a great idea. Although the walk off is pretty easy, it seems to make sense as there are anchors on the second pitch. I looked at a place on the face right above where the boulder with the rope is that could work as a rap/belay for both the left and right variations. Let me know if you want to throw some anchors in up there and I'll go with you. May 21, 2013
ChadARobinson
Gunnison
 
ChadARobinson   Gunnison
 
How would people feel about adding rap anchors at the top of the left version of Chuck E. Cheese? I've climbed this excellent route many times, and there is a very obvious place at the end of the real climbing that would make good sense. The rap is from there to the top of pitch two, to the anchors on Back for Seconds (the steep crack route just to the right of C.E.C.).

Thoughts? May 20, 2013
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
This route can be climbed in merely two pitches. The first two pitches can lead in one long pitch with a 60M rope. The route meanders a bit, so make sure to extend all your slings. It takes nuts really well, so bring a full run. Jul 11, 2007