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Routes in Second Buttress
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Angles Away T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Back for Seconds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Big Top project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Chucky Cheese T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gas Cafe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Johnny Rotten T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Journey through Gwondonaland T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left End Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mathematical Progressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Needs a Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Required Gardening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slap Happy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ugly American S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Whatever T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | R. Jack & L. Malloy |
| Page Views: | 776 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Sievers on Aug 9, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
From the Malloy book: "climb flakes and cracks to the chimney system on the left. Continue up broken chimney system to the anchors."
I would suggest it's a full body workout with some hand, fist, OW, rounded edges, chimney, and face all wrapped up into one strenous & sustanined pitch. The last 15' is the crux with crumbly, rounded holds until you can get the locker-hand-jam and dish to pull onto the ledge. (It is best to plan yer lead head at 9+.)
I would suggest it's a full body workout with some hand, fist, OW, rounded edges, chimney, and face all wrapped up into one strenous & sustanined pitch. The last 15' is the crux with crumbly, rounded holds until you can get the locker-hand-jam and dish to pull onto the ledge. (It is best to plan yer lead head at 9+.)
Location
This is on the far right side of the Second Buttress, 10' left of Journey through Gandawandaland. It shares the same chain anchors. Rap to the right to reach the upper ledge at 60m, then 4th-class scramble down 30' more.
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