Needs a Bolt
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Second Buttress
|Angles Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Back for Seconds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Big Top project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Chucky Cheese T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Johnny Rotten T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Journey through Gwondonaland T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Left End Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mathematical Progressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Needs a Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Slap Happy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Whatever T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft|
|FA:||Chris Begue & John Hulett, 1983 or '84|
|Page Views:||136 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||phil broscovak on Aug 26, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionHere is one of the penultimate Harmels funk fests. A route of unusual character and unexpected grace. A highly recommended route. A great lead IF you are solid at the grade. Start up the poorly protected, steep face until you can turn the little overhang (1st crux) and get established in the dihedral. Climb the funkhedral about half way to the roof and go left across an exposed and funkalicious hand and/or foot traverse out left. Continue up through the most obvious weakness in the left side of the Roofer Madness roof (2nd crux) and belay on the commodious ledge above. Rap to the base from bolts.
LocationFrom the base of the 2nd buttress at the start of left-facing, left-leaning dihedral of Angles Away there is a steep, broken face that climbs up right to the left-facing dihedral leading to the Roofer Madness roof. This is the big corner and roof system above Angles Away.
ProtectionNeeds a bolt or two (BUT WON'T GET ANY!).
There is potential for a bad fall at the start, but with thoughtful gear placement this route is a relatively safe adventure. Small wires will be essential at both cruxes. Otherwise, just a standard selection of gear should do. Take long slings to reduce rope drag potential.
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