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Routes in Second Buttress

Angles Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back for Seconds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Top project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Chucky Cheese T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Rotten T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey through Gwondonaland T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left End Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mathematical Progressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Needs a Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Slap Happy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Whatever T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Chris Begue & John Hulett, 1983 or '84
Page Views: 136 total, 1/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Aug 26, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Here is one of the penultimate Harmels funk fests. A route of unusual character and unexpected grace. A highly recommended route. A great lead IF you are solid at the grade. Start up the poorly protected, steep face until you can turn the little overhang (1st crux) and get established in the dihedral. Climb the funkhedral about half way to the roof and go left across an exposed and funkalicious hand and/or foot traverse out left. Continue up through the most obvious weakness in the left side of the Roofer Madness roof (2nd crux) and belay on the commodious ledge above. Rap to the base from bolts.

Location

From the base of the 2nd buttress at the start of left-facing, left-leaning dihedral of Angles Away there is a steep, broken face that climbs up right to the left-facing dihedral leading to the Roofer Madness roof. This is the big corner and roof system above Angles Away.

Protection

Needs a bolt or two (BUT WON'T GET ANY!).
There is potential for a bad fall at the start, but with thoughtful gear placement this route is a relatively safe adventure. Small wires will be essential at both cruxes. Otherwise, just a standard selection of gear should do. Take long slings to reduce rope drag potential.

Photos

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Bryan Gilmore
New England
Bryan Gilmore   New England
Penultimate means second to last. Dec 23, 2008
First ascent-Chris Begue and John Hulett- 1983 or 84. Bolt added later and then removed, no this is not two bolt wall-crazy time leading that one. Apr 2, 2008
Stephanovich
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Stephanovich   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Great climb, I remember the gear exists 1st placement is a bomber blind #1 cam placement, the rest is there. You gotta trust it and commit. Jimmy thanx for the morning brew and hip belay. Philo thanx for taking me to Taylor. Sep 10, 2007
Hey Scott after all these years it is good to hear you are still out there. Needs a Bolt and 2 Bolt Wall are different routes. 2 Bolt, Another Fantastic Harmels Funk Fest is farther up river past the 2nd Buttress. 2 Bolt is (imho) more serious than Needs a Bolt even though they are about the same difficulty. Great stuff you have been posting! Let's see those ole time pics! Aug 26, 2007
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Hey Phil, Scott Mossman here, remember me? I was thinking this might be what we used to call "two bolt wall". It was up and left of the "sugar cube" left of the second buttress, from your description, it is not. I've got some great slides of Tom Pulaski, John Pearson, and crew at a picnic just before their first ascent with Jimmy and John Rosholt on the Painted Wall. When I get them scanned, I'll post them. Aug 26, 2007