Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,511 total · 84/month
Shared By: Dustin Einig on Oct 30, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


84 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Huge moves including at least one dyno (see picture) and more technical climbing at the top.

Location

Route located where the trail meets the cliff.

Protection

10 bolts to bolt anchors.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
A definite sandbag. Rumor has it that the first ascentionist was well over 6 foot so the majority of the reaches were reasonable. Mike Doyle, who put up Lucifer 5.14c at Purgatory needed to red-point this line. 5.12- to 5.12+/.13- might be more appropriate as a grade. A truly height dependent line. Oct 29, 2009
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
This route is extremely height dependent. If you're tall, the dyno's and deadpoints are less of an issue. Regardless, this is a must do route! Nov 9, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
This is, hands-down, the best 12a I have ever done. Nov 30, 2009
ethlogo  
I did it all static...

I might be 6'4" though Mar 4, 2012
Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
Epic! Best route of the trip (no send though). Aug 2, 2013
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Felt 5.12c to me, at 5 ft 9 inches with a 5 ft 11 inch wingspan. If I had an inch less reach it could have been 5.14! The crimp/pocket section in the middle of the route was also tricky. Great route! Aug 24, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
At 6'5" with an even ape index, I feel this route is perfect for me. Super damn fun big, but static, moves for me. However my 5'5" wife couldn't even envision how someone her size could do it. Big, steep dynos I presume but man that would be incredibly difficult. Apr 27, 2015
Timothy Hanthorn
Knoxville, TN
Timothy Hanthorn   Knoxville, TN
I'm 6ft I felt it was a bit hard for the grade considering the biggest move felt like a hard v4 soft v5?
I'm curious what other people think I'm not good a grading routes but I thought 12a was v3.
It's hard to call that dead point a v3. Jan 9, 2019