Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown but listed in the guidebook
Page Views: 5,922 total · 50/month
Shared By: Tim F. on May 9, 2009 with updates from Ryan Brown
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


178 Opinions

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Description

Start off a pyramid shaped boulder under the huge roof and either reach out and clip the first bolt and swing onto the huge first hold or if you're shorter you dyno onto the hold.

Location

About 40 feet left of Dogleg and hard to miss due to the huge roof at the start. Starts off the big boulder. Stick clip recommended.

Crosley shares the same start off the boulder but goes up the face left of Toker.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts to anchors.
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.11a/b
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.11a/b
Thuggish start makes this maybe not the best warmup. Oct 19, 2009
JJNS  
The slab section down low would be more enjoyable with fewer bolts. Dec 30, 2010
DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
...just don't clip the bolts then. Apr 8, 2011
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
If you can't warmup on this, I'm not sure what you'll be able to climb at this wall once you're warmed up. Apr 8, 2011
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Awesome route; crap bolts. Like many new routes in the Red, five years old and the anchors and top bolt are rust buckets. There is a brand new radical technology that was just invented in 1915 called "stainless steel"( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stain…).

You boys might want to check it out instead of drilling new non-stainless bolts to replace these. They are way more expensive, but I put up routes 20 years ago that look brand new compared to the crap on this route. This is worse than chipping. Apr 24, 2011
Fully rebolted with stainless glue-ins as of 1/13. Thanks to Jeff and Yas for the help. Feb 4, 2013
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
Excellent. Thank you! Feb 4, 2013