Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kenny Barker
Page Views: 2,309 total · 37/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Mar 17, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This aesthetic, slightly overhanging route is not your typical RRG jug haul. The lower half of No Redemption features back-to-back boulder problems that require finesse, techy footwork, and good thin face climbing skills. The final 40 feet of grab and dangle climbing would probably be rated 12a on it's own.

Stick clip the first bolt, then follow good holds to a small overlap below the first crux. A V4 sequence on shallow, slopey pockets and scoops leads to a set of better pockets. Rest up, then attack the hardest section of the route, which clocks in at around V5. Make a huge deadpoint or employ some terrible, slopey scoops and features to reach a pair of edges, then toss for a decent, flat ledge where you can recover. The next V4 boulder problem is the redpoint crux. Bust right, then up, using crisp pockets, and sharp edges until you hit better holds in a horizontal break.

Past this point, the wall steepens, and the style morphs into the classic RRG style. A long section of flowy moves on decent pockets ends with restful holds below a bulge. Follow jugs over the bulge to some finger buckets with bad feet just below the anchors.

This route is on the harder side of 13b. Cool, crisp conditions are helpful.

Location

Right of Toker.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13b
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13b
If I had a quarter for every time someone says a route is "not your typical RRG jug haul"... Mar 17, 2014