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Routes in Bob Marley

Archangel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beta-vul Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodbath S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crosley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Demon Seed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dogleg S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eyeball Chaw S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flush S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moment of Truth T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Redemption S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Reticent S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Skinny Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tacit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Toker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tony's Happy Christmas Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ultra-perm S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Velvet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Waiting for JJ S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where's JJ? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where's the Beef? S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kenny Barker
Page Views: 1,705 total · 32/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Mar 17, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This aesthetic, slightly overhanging route is not your typical RRG jug haul. The lower half of No Redemption features back-to-back boulder problems that require finesse, techy footwork, and good thin face climbing skills. The final 40 feet of grab and dangle climbing would probably be rated 12a on it's own.

Stick clip the first bolt, then follow good holds to a small overlap below the first crux. A V4 sequence on shallow, slopey pockets and scoops leads to a set of better pockets. Rest up, then attack the hardest section of the route, which clocks in at around V5. Make a huge deadpoint or employ some terrible, slopey scoops and features to reach a pair of edges, then toss for a decent, flat ledge where you can recover. The next V4 boulder problem is the redpoint crux. Bust right, then up, using crisp pockets, and sharp edges until you hit better holds in a horizontal break.

Past this point, the wall steepens, and the style morphs into the classic RRG style. A long section of flowy moves on decent pockets ends with restful holds below a bulge. Follow jugs over the bulge to some finger buckets with bad feet just below the anchors.

This route is on the harder side of 13b. Cool, crisp conditions are helpful.

Location

Right of Toker.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
If I had a quarter for every time someone says a route is "not your typical RRG jug haul"... Mar 17, 2014

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