Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2009
Page Views: 1,356 total · 25/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Jul 20, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Shares the first few bolts and all the good dynos on Dogleg, then breaks left across thin holds, using the obvious ramp for feet. It just keeps on giving with big moves and small edges and pockets all the way to the end. Excellent technical climbing following Dogleg's thuggy start. A truly classic pitch.

Protection

9 bolts, some of them well spaced, but safe. Fixed cable draws on the anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Will Sweeney
Zachariah, Kentucky
Will Sweeney   Zachariah, Kentucky
Another hyper classic face route in the Red. As good as Orange Juice if not better. Jan 9, 2015
irujo
 
irujo  
 
I can't get over how great this route is!! Dec 7, 2016
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
In my opinion, routes in the gorge can be a bit homogenous, but not this one. Big moves up a clean face; stick the final deadpoint or go for a long ride. Best sport route at the grade I’ve ever done. Nov 13, 2018
Alexander Stathis
Athens, GA
  5.12c
Alexander Stathis   Athens, GA
  5.12c
No distinct crux (unless you're under 5'10" or so...), but consistent V2-V3 movement combined with sporty bolting makes this thing interesting until the very end. One of the best in the Red: don't skip this one. Nov 25, 2018