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Routes in Bob Marley

Archangel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beta-vul Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodbath S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crosley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Demon Seed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dogleg S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eyeball Chaw S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flush S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moment of Truth T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Redemption S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Reticent S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Skinny Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Southern Smoke S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Tacit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Toker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tony's Happy Christmas Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ultra-perm S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Velvet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Waiting for JJ S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where's JJ? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where's the Beef? S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Sarah Gross in 2014
Page Views: 218 total, 8/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Sep 22, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

A bit controversial, this route takes a very pretty line of pockets up an orange streak about 8 feet right of a traditional route, Moment of Truth. People have threatened to chop this line because they think it's too close to the crack. The bottom has the hardest moves, but the second half will test your endurance.

Stick clip the first bolt, and do some long reaches and tough moves with bad feet to get into the corner. Establish a stem in the dihedral just as the holds disappear, and pull onto the ledge for a standing rest below the steep upper half. Follow uncut pockets up and right to the anchors- keeping it together during the sections that have bad feet or smaller pockets.

This route is still cleaning up a bit and will probably earn another star once it cleans up.

Interestingly, there is another controversial route in Boulder that is named Archangel. Must be something about that name...

Location

Left of No Redemption on the left side of the Bob Marley crag. Look for a very striking copper colored streak just right of a steep dihedral.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners. There is a fixed draw about 3/4 of the way up to help clean.

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