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Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff

Buffy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bugaboo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clamdigger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Continental Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Equinox T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Good Omens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Harmonic Convergence T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heathrow - Ice Climb WI3+
Hidden Attraction T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotel California T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joe's Route - Ice Climb WI2
Obscure Object of Desire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Spice T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old Spud T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Old Stud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandora T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poison Ivy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Queen Charlotte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Children (mid-cliff START) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,143 total · 9/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Jun 2, 2008 with updates from Mark Fochesato
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun, moderate climb, but be aware of the long run outs. Climb up the middle of a narrow slab to a spacious ledge at a two bolt chain anchor. The climbing is straightforward for the most part, but gear placements are hard to find.

Location

Just right of the dirty gully at the extreme left end of the cliff.

Protection

Bring a modern camden rack, especially small wires. A fixed anchor is at the top.

Photos

epoch
Maine
epoch   Maine
This didn't seem as runout as other climbs on the cliff. The placements are adequate and right where you need them. Sep 14, 2009
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.6 R
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.6 R
I think I did this one a couple of days ago, although I can't be entirely sure since there are a few climbs on this face, and talking to a local, it sounds like I started out on old spice, and ended on young stud (?) - which I think is the crack system directly above old stud. The runout felt like 25 feet, but on pretty easy ground and as epoch says, solid. Pretty fun. Jun 9, 2011

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