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Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff

Buffy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bugaboo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clamdigger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Continental Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Equinox T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Good Omens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Harmonic Convergence T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heathrow - Ice Climb WI3+
Hotel California T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joe's Route - Ice Climb WI2
Obscure Object of Desire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Spice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old Stud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandora T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poison Ivy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Queen Charlotte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Children (mid-cliff START) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Ice, 220 ft
FA: Ken Clark - early 1970's
Page Views: 311 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brian Oelberg on Jan 3, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The main ice flow off of Barrett's.

Protection

Stubby ice screws.

Photos

Brian Oelberg
Roseburg
 
Brian Oelberg   Roseburg
 

GAINAM: Glove Accidents in North American Mountaineering

Glove fall analysis: Barretts Cove, Camden Hills State Park, Maine
Fuschia: direct line of glove fall
Yellow X is the bolt at the bottom of CIS
Red: Heathrow
Green: Continental Ice Sheet and Joe's Route
Periwinkle: route of successful glove rescue attempt


Got up nice and early, but answered phone on a Sunday. (this was most likely the critical decision point) Work call delayed start but a valiant posthole effort was made by all. An attempt to reach Solstice was abandoned due to deep snow wallowing, and a first belay was set below the Belay Seat Ledge for Heathrow. Warm conditions led to rotten ice so a decision was made to attempt Joe's Route or Continental Ice Sheet.

Good progress to the bolt on the face below Continental Ice Sheet, but an error in hand eye coordination led to a glove fall that began slowly enough, but quickly accelerated and cartwheeled over 100 feet, before self arresting on branches above the lower talus.

A hasty retreat took us back to the tree at the bottom of Heathrow, and from there a miraculous glove sighting led us into a successful rescue operation, postholing through deep snow to retrieve the $14 Kinco glove.

By now the gloaming and defeatism of several mistakes sank in and we slunked happily back to the car. With both gloves. Mar 1, 2015
Ben Townsend  
 
In typical conditions, a light rock rack is helpful for the first pitch. Jan 3, 2015