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Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff

Buffy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bugaboo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clamdigger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Continental Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Equinox T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Good Omens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Harmonic Convergence T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heathrow - Ice Climb WI3+
Hotel California T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joe's Route - Ice Climb WI2
Obscure Object of Desire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Spice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old Stud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandora T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poison Ivy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Queen Charlotte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Children (mid-cliff START) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ben Townsend and Jerry Cinnamon,1987
Page Views: 861 total, 11/month
Shared By: Rob C. on Sep 4, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Find a small crack below a very small grassy ledge and a slightly overhanging bulge and climb it! Watch out for the loose triangular rock at the at the grassy ledge. The bulge is a tricky pull; once you have passed it move left and then straight on for the first bolt you see. At the top of the climb there is a small horizontally angling crack that takes some small gear that protects the final moves well. From here move right to the small evergreen bush and on to Broadway ledge.

Location

Left side of Lower Charlotte's, to the right of Easy Ramp.

Protection

Small gear to a #1BD. 2 Draws for bolts.

Photos

Forrest Carver
Edgecomb, ME
Forrest Carver   Edgecomb, ME
Is this called Champagne in the guidebook? Or Clamdigger's Crack? Nov 6, 2017