Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff

Buffy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bugaboo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clamdigger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Continental Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Equinox T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Good Omens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Harmonic Convergence T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heathrow - Ice Climb WI3+
Hotel California T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joe's Route - Ice Climb WI2
Obscure Object of Desire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Spice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old Stud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandora T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poison Ivy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Queen Charlotte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Children (mid-cliff START) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ben Townsend, Jerry Cinnamon, Dorcas Miller
Page Views: 143 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Jun 13, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Follow the wide crack until it ends at a horizontal, then climb straight up a short slab to reach a diagonal ramp. Step left a few feet, then climb straight up to a tiny overlap. Pull the overlap (crux) and follow big holds, stepping left to finish up the middle of the face. The route seems improbable from below in several spots, but hidden holds and pockets make it both easy and well protected.

Location

Start by climbing Joe's Route (4th or easy 5th, 150') to the prominent pine tree on the right skyline. The route starts at a wide crack about 20' feet left of the pine.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"; pine tree with rap chain and ring at the top.

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
The line shown for this climb in the book Rock Climbing New England is a long way to the left of the actual route. Jun 13, 2016