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Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff

Buffy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bugaboo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clamdigger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Continental Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Equinox T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Good Omens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Harmonic Convergence T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heathrow - Ice Climb WI3+
Hotel California T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joe's Route - Ice Climb WI2
Obscure Object of Desire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Spice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old Stud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandora T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poison Ivy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Queen Charlotte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Children (mid-cliff START) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 62 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Sep 27, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Pull up out of the right side of the alcove onto a short slab, then step back left to a crack system. Follow the crack until it fades out, then step left to a short section of thin face climbing (5.8, bolt) that leads to a good ledge. Pull up a steep right-facing corner (crux) onto the headwall, then straight up to the top.

Location

About halfway up Joe's Route are two triangular, left-leaning chimneys. This route starts in a grassy alcove with a horizontal crack, at the base of the right chimney. Rappel twice with one rope, using a bolted intermediate anchor to climber's left.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" (4" optional), emphasizing small cams. Gear belay at the start (multiple 1" works best); bolted top anchor.

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