Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FFA: Greg Olsen, Dick Cilley, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 3,629 total · 28/month
Shared By: Eric8 on Apr 12, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Description

A classic pitch with a somewhat feared reputation. Fear not though as the gear is good and the climbing soft for the grade. Starts on juggy holds and liebacks left of thin fingers before tackling the meat of the climb, a stemming section with few to no small hand holds.

There is a second 10d pitch above that will put you at the base of Death to Zeke, that I haven't done.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
AKA Buried Treasure. Dec 31, 2008
C Miller   CA  
Named after Dick Cilley's mother. Dec 31, 2008
calvino
Marblemount, WA
calvino   Marblemount, WA
I was glad to have an orange Metolius TCU before starting up the crux stemming section. Jan 30, 2014
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
 
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
 
Some small offset nuts would be really nice at the crux. The gear there gets very thin and tricky which can be a bit of a surprise if you don't know what you're getting into. Aug 17, 2015
Jeremy Park
Seattle, WA
  5.11c
Jeremy Park   Seattle, WA
  5.11c
Route takes a perfect brassy and offset right below the crux. Don't even try to get gear in the left crack. Just stim for your life and punch it for the chains. Don't worry the fall is completely safe... Jun 15, 2017
For me the yellow Metolius TCU is the bomber piece for the pod at the start of the stem corner. Although you can place both Yellow and Orange next to each other in what is really a "double pod", I remember the orange always seeming baggy. Also can slam a good purple c3 from almost the same stance higher into the left crack for some more mental comfort. Then it is off to stem-town. Apr 12, 2018
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
  5.11b/c
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
  5.11b/c
You can also throw a ball nut in. Almost like cheating. Apr 12, 2018