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Shirley You Can't Be Serious
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Chris Tirrell |
Page Views: | 2,060 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Ol Toby on May 8, 2016 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
This route adds an easier start and a hard variation finish to the classic pitch "Shirley" at the LTW.
First clip a bolt and climb up into the corner system right of Shirley. When that corner ends place a thin piece or two and step left to rejoin Shirley. This start is approximately 10+.
Next climb Shirley into the hand-jam pod below the crux stemming on that route. Reach left and clip a bolt out on the arete, then down-climb until both hands are on the jug flake on the left side of the Shirley pillar. From here, climb up and left into the oblique dihedral past two more bolts, encountering two distinct boulder problems on the way to the NAD ledge.
I found this route to be a bit harder than its neighbor, Narrow Arrow Direct, but not as hard as the Narrow Arrow Overhang. While the crux section is short the climbing is powerful and sustained with good movement and the rig makes a nice addition to the hard climbing at the wall.
First clip a bolt and climb up into the corner system right of Shirley. When that corner ends place a thin piece or two and step left to rejoin Shirley. This start is approximately 10+.
Next climb Shirley into the hand-jam pod below the crux stemming on that route. Reach left and clip a bolt out on the arete, then down-climb until both hands are on the jug flake on the left side of the Shirley pillar. From here, climb up and left into the oblique dihedral past two more bolts, encountering two distinct boulder problems on the way to the NAD ledge.
I found this route to be a bit harder than its neighbor, Narrow Arrow Direct, but not as hard as the Narrow Arrow Overhang. While the crux section is short the climbing is powerful and sustained with good movement and the rig makes a nice addition to the hard climbing at the wall.
3 Comments