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Stamper-Holland
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | C. Defecto, J. Ellerbrook 4/ 2007 |
Page Views: | 1,399 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jan 25, 2020 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Without a Doubt: The Worst, Most Adventurous Route on the Lower Town Wall
DANGER: Do NOT attempt this route when others are climbing below.
This route climbs the Lower Town Wall for two pitches before ultimately ending on the Quarry Wall.
The start is best approached by climbing Bob and Doris then traversing right on a sandy ledge.
Belay at bolts.
Pitch 1: Easy does it as you stem the 6' wide chimney 40' before its narrows down to more reasonable fare. Clip a bolt at a constriction and traverse up and right 25' through broken ledges to a bolted belay midway across the face. 5.9+ A 50' section of Pitch 1 (along with at least one of its bolts) collapsed in the winter of 2013.
Pitch 2: Traverse right another 25' to a short finger crack in the corner and build an anchor. 5.5
Pitch 3: Climb the corner chimney system, passing a sandy ledge, then behind a large chockstone to a belay. *Beware of the potential for unpredictable and possibly massive rockfall. 5.7+
Pitch 4: Traverse right onto the Quarry Wall, passing 4 bolts before scrambling to the top. A pleasant and clean pitch. 5.9
Descend any number of ways.
This route climbs the Lower Town Wall for two pitches before ultimately ending on the Quarry Wall.
The start is best approached by climbing Bob and Doris then traversing right on a sandy ledge.
Belay at bolts.
Pitch 1: Easy does it as you stem the 6' wide chimney 40' before its narrows down to more reasonable fare. Clip a bolt at a constriction and traverse up and right 25' through broken ledges to a bolted belay midway across the face. 5.9+ A 50' section of Pitch 1 (along with at least one of its bolts) collapsed in the winter of 2013.
Pitch 2: Traverse right another 25' to a short finger crack in the corner and build an anchor. 5.5
Pitch 3: Climb the corner chimney system, passing a sandy ledge, then behind a large chockstone to a belay. *Beware of the potential for unpredictable and possibly massive rockfall. 5.7+
Pitch 4: Traverse right onto the Quarry Wall, passing 4 bolts before scrambling to the top. A pleasant and clean pitch. 5.9
Descend any number of ways.
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