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Routes in Narrow Arrow and further right

24 Hour Buccaneer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bob and Doris T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Deal with it Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Fighter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Higher Learning T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Say No S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just Say No to With Apologies to Walter B T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Kunselman's Physics T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Barbecue T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Like Honey T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mini Air Dangler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Narrow Arrow Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Narrow Arrow Overhang T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natural Log Cabin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Path of Righteousness T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarry Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Salad Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shirley T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shirley You Can't Be Serious T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tatoosh T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Fingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voyage of the Majestic Glass-eyed Tuna T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
With Apologies to Walter B T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Daryl Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro, and Terry Lien
Page Views: 4,619 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This rarely done gem is definitely my favorite single pitch climb on the lower wall. Runout 5.10 climbing leads to a bolt and some fun 5.11 face moves. Next is a flared hand crack that can be liebacked (hard to place gear this way), which leads to a good rest and a bolt. Step right into a spectacular corner with bolts. Stem and lieback your way to the chains. May be a little reachy, and probably easier for tall people. Lowering is not recommended due to lots of rope drag.

Note: A standard 70 meter rope will not reach the ground if lowering.

Location

This is the next route to the right of Godzilla P1. The orignal pitch called Deal with it ranger goes straight up a chimney where Natural log cabin cuts right into the bolted corner.

Protection

Mixed

About the name

Natural log cabin was a bit of mathematical humor in the form of graffiti in the internationally famous 1st floor men's room of the old UW Physics building. It was in the stall against the wall, I believe. I heard that before they moved out, and transferred the building to Administration, someone went in and carefully photographed all the old graffiti.
Funny cause I pretty distinctly recall telling Darryl it was 11b/c after following it on the FA. Oct 17, 2017
Jon Todorovich
  5.11d PG13
Jon Todorovich  
  5.11d PG13
One of the best among the classics at the LTW. Climbing to the first bolt is a little spicy, but not terrible. There are 3 pieces of gear that are all pretty good before the bolt. If the risk/reward to the first bolt just isn't worth it to you (the climbing to the first bolt isn't that special anyway), another safer option is to warm up on Godzilla trailing a separate rope and on the way down stick clip the first bolt on The Cabin.
A blue TCU makes the spaced bolts in the bottomless corner feel much more approachable. But the fall is perfectly clean if you forgo the TCU and take the whipper.

The route has 2 sets of anchors -- one for the original route (right) and one for the left variation. I prefer the original exit and this anchor is atop a large comfy ledge, which is nice. The left anchor is about 10 feet lower than the right anchor - just below the large, comfy ledge. One downside to the right anchor is it puts the rope in-line with a rope-sized crack that I've gotten my rope stuck in (easy to fix with minimal shenanigans). I've done the route with 2 different 70's -- both barely got me to the ground from the left (and lower) anchors. If rapping from the right anchors with a 70 you'll have to do some easy down climbing. Tie knots or use an 80!!
Another quick word of caution - its probably better to rap from this one. If lowering (from the right anchor), you may get your rope stuck in the crack and you may be stuck in space. Jun 18, 2016
Douglas T
5.11d R
Douglas T  
5.11d R
Alex Honnold called it "The Hardest 11d in the World". Apr 13, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
The name came from the oft-admired graffiti in the 1st-floor men's room in the old UW Physics building (RIP). Sep 30, 2014
derekpearson Pearson  
  5.12a R
I rapelled this route 7/29 with a 70 but had to down climb the first move so it can be done with a 70 carefully. Aug 2, 2013
Ol Toby
CA
  5.11d
Ol Toby   CA
  5.11d
Superb, four-star pitch with several cruxes separated by good rests. The hanging dihedral is both technical and powerful with surprisingly good feet, but it ain't over til you pull the final layback moves with a solid pump on board. Jul 25, 2013
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I love this climb. I always used to approach it by moving in from the start of Godzilla as opposed to the direct start. On one occasion, a hold broke in the 5.10 section while I was fully locked off on it and it was a pretty close call, within 5 feet of the ground. I whipped on my only cam and it wasn't the greatest placement. I've since determined that there is better gear on the direct version that makes getting to the first bolt more reasonable but still a bit run-out: you still don't want to fall in the vicinity of the bolt. The direct start is unprotected for about 20 feet and seems always to be a bit dirty. Finally, if you're shorter than 5'6" or have a short reach, clipping the first bolt without a pre-hung draw/sling may prove to be very committing. Jul 3, 2008
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d PG13
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d PG13
If you aren't 6'3" and built like a bear as Jesse is this route is going to feel hard for the grade...5.11c is defintanly a sandbag...not as bad as some sandbags at Index, but definantly up there. And the first 30 feet is 5.10 R/X...though feels more PG-13/R.

It also seeps like crazy till it's had a solid week in the sun. Jun 12, 2008