Avg: 4 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA(3p): Greg Donaldson, Richard Mathies, 68 FFA(p1 L): Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien FFA(P2 via traverse): Dick Cilley|
|Page Views:||5,389 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
This incredible route has a storied history of free climbing attempts but the first integral redpoint of the full modern pitch was done by Ben Gilkison. Start via some ledgy climbing up to an obvious left facing corner with cracks. Climb up the face and corner above past two bolts to an anchor. Continue through the shallow opposing corners above via spectacular tricky stemming moves with small, finicky gear to another ledge with an anchor. Lieback the arete/corner above past two bolts to the roof. There are a couple methods that work, but either way a very physical sequence of moves leads over the roof to a new anchor about 15 feet above. A little runout in spots and absolutely spectacular.
4 bolts at the beginning, 3 on the top section (including the anchor below the lieback). Nuts (include a couple of Offsets or RPs) and cams to 1 inch. If you want detailed spoiler beta for gear, read the comments below as some broken rock has changed a critical placement a bit. There are no less than 3 chain-equipped anchors on the route! Stopping at the first makes for a very short pitch of .10c. The second is on a ledge at the end of the original free pitch and makes for an incredible .11c. The third is at the end of the full free pitch. Descent from the top anchors is possible via a single 70m rope.