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Narrow Arrow Overhang
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 7
votes
Routes in Narrow Arrow and further right
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24 Hour Buccaneer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bob and Doris T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Deal with it Ranger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Free at Last T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Freedom Fighter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Higher Learning T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Just Say No S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Kunselman's Physics T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Let's Barbecue T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Like Honey T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Mini Air Dangler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Narrow Arrow Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Narrow Arrow Overhang T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Natural Log Cabin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Path of Righteousness T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quarry Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Salad Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shirley T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shirley You Can't Be Serious T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Tatoosh T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Fingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Voyage of the Majestic Glass-eyed Tuna T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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With Apologies to Walter B T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA(3p): Greg Donaldson, Richard Mathies, 68 FFA(p1 L): Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien FFA(P2 via traverse): Dick Cilley |
| Page Views: | 3,631 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick |
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Description
To the right of Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin, climb ledges to a left facing corner with cracks and some face climbing. Climb up the face and corner past two bolts to an anchor (.10c). Above, climb through the shallow chimneys via tricky stemming moves with small gear (hard to place) to another ledge with an anchor (.11b/c). Lieback the arete/corner above past two bolts to the roof (.12d). A very tough move leads over the roof to a new anchor about 15 feet above (.12). A little runout in spots and absolutely spectacular. First free ascent of the modern pitch is probably by Ben Gilkison. The crux lieback section was likely first freed on toprope by Chris Schlotfeldt in the 90's.
Location
Starts between Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin and Narrow Arrow Direct in a left facing corner with a crack on the face of the corner. Above the top anchors, it looks possible to continue climbing via corners and some broken rock to a higher anchor below the Salad Fingers corner. This appears to have been climbed in the past but I'm uncertain of the difficulty.
Protection
4 bolts at the beginning, 3 on the top section (including the anchor below the lieback). Nuts (include a couple of RP's) and cams small to 1 inch. There are no less than 3 chain-equipped anchors on the route! The first marks the end of yet another 'short version' (.10c). The second is at the end of the first pitch proper, right before the crux .12+ arete. The third is at the end of the 'full' free pitch. Descent from the top anchors is possible via a single 70m rope.
From above the full 35m P1, the climbing is just a few meters of 5.8 chimneying with hand cracks to a pedestal ledge. It's easy to reach the anchor between P2 and P3 of NAD, or to step left to the anchor below Salad Fingers. Oct 23, 2012
2xV6 boulder problems and one thuggy 5.11 start
V6=5.11b/c
(5.11b/c)+(5.11b/c)+(5.11)=5.12
We'll call this the "Index Grading Proof" Jan 10, 2015
As blake highlighted the two v6 boulder problems are not really "separated" by anything resembling a restful position, but rather are "connected" by a strenuous crucial gear placement in the overhang.
My subjective breakdown of difficulty of sections between rest...
Stage 1: Approach pitch to second anchor = cryptic 5.11 R ---> huge rest
Stage 2= Strenuous V4/5 ---> bad rest in finger lock ---> (V5/6 getting to roof + extremely pumpy gear placement + V6 navigating roof). Last boulder problem is intense.
stage 2 could be reduced to v4 ---> bad rest---> v7/8 highball( from finger-lock rest to hand jam in stance above roof)
Still working on my index math mastery but that comes out to at least 5.11 B ++ Jun 21, 2015
Tacoma
CA
Seattle
Seattle
Even though this page has not mentioned the gear at the roof, I thought I'd give an update, since folks ask each other for gear beta and I don't want anyone to get hosed by outdated information.
Until recently, it seems everyone placed a .5 C4 to protect the (alleged V6) boulder problem at the roof.
That placement recently pulled due to rock breaking, ripping out a BIG chunk of the surrounding stone. That placement is shallow and sketchy at best now.
I ended up placing a blue Totem near the lip of the roof, though it is a hair finicky and tipped-out. Regardless, the .5 C4 is probably not what you want any more. Sep 1, 2017
Seattle