Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA: FA(3p): Greg Donaldson, Richard Mathies, 68 FFA(p1 L): Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien FFA(P2 via traverse): Dick Cilley
Page Views: 4,676 total · 31/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This incredible route has a storied history of free climbing attempts but the first integral redpoint of the full modern pitch was done by Ben Gilkison. Start via some ledgy climbing up to an obvious left facing corner with cracks. Climb up the face and corner above past two bolts to an anchor. Continue through the shallow opposing corners above via spectacular tricky stemming moves with small, finicky gear to another ledge with an anchor. Lieback the arete/corner above past two bolts to the roof. There are a couple methods that work, but either way a very physical sequence of moves leads over the roof to a new anchor about 15 feet above. A little runout in spots and absolutely spectacular. 

Location

Starts between Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin and Narrow Arrow Direct in a left facing corner with a crack on the face of the corner. Above the top anchors, it looks possible to continue climbing via corners and some broken rock to a higher anchor below the Salad Fingers corner. This appears to have been climbed in the past but I'm uncertain of the difficulty.

Protection

4 bolts at the beginning, 3 on the top section (including the anchor below the lieback). Nuts (include a couple of Offsets or RPs) and cams to 1 inch. If you want detailed spoiler beta for gear, read the comments below as some broken rock has changed a critical placement a bit. There are no less than 3 chain-equipped anchors on the route! Stopping at the first makes for a very short pitch of .10c. The second is on a ledge at the end of the original free pitch and makes for an incredible .11c. The third is at the end of the full free pitch. Descent from the top anchors is possible via a single 70m rope.

Photos