Avg: 4 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA(3p): Greg Donaldson, Richard Mathies, 68 FFA(p1 L): Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien FFA(P2 via traverse): Dick Cilley|
|Page Views:||4,676 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
1) The novel coronavirus and Index residents.
Residents of Index are very concerned about visitors spreading the virus to them. Please be considerate by taking some serious precautions such as
- Be extra safe to greatly reduce the chance of needing a rescue. (Choose partner carefully, just TR routes. Triple-check setups...)
- Do not interact with the people in town or on a trail. (Choose an obscure crag & route. Drive carefully through town.)
- In case the above two precautions fail or you come across someone on a trail or crag, bring a facemask and gloves to wear to prevent spreading the virus from your breath or hands. In lieu of a facemask, a bandana or scarf over the nose and mouth can also reduce the spread of fine droplets from your nose and mouth when you speak. Also, try to keep the 6-foot recommended distance from other people.
2) 2020 Seasonal raptor closure: Our resident pair of Peregrines selected a nest site on the 6th pitch of Sabbra Cadabra this year, similar to 2016 and 2018 nesting seasons. Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2020. This includes the upper pitches of Sabbra Cadabra, Black Radish, and Hell Bent for Glory.
Every spring, Washington State Parks, WDFW, Access Fund, and Washington Climbers Coalition partner to identify the nest site of Index's Peregrine falcons. Once identified, a spot closure is instituted around the selected nest site through approximately July 15th. Report potential raptor nesting activity to email@example.com. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program each year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
This incredible route has a storied history of free climbing attempts but the first integral redpoint of the full modern pitch was done by Ben Gilkison. Start via some ledgy climbing up to an obvious left facing corner with cracks. Climb up the face and corner above past two bolts to an anchor. Continue through the shallow opposing corners above via spectacular tricky stemming moves with small, finicky gear to another ledge with an anchor. Lieback the arete/corner above past two bolts to the roof. There are a couple methods that work, but either way a very physical sequence of moves leads over the roof to a new anchor about 15 feet above. A little runout in spots and absolutely spectacular.
4 bolts at the beginning, 3 on the top section (including the anchor below the lieback). Nuts (include a couple of Offsets or RPs) and cams to 1 inch. If you want detailed spoiler beta for gear, read the comments below as some broken rock has changed a critical placement a bit. There are no less than 3 chain-equipped anchors on the route! Stopping at the first makes for a very short pitch of .10c. The second is on a ledge at the end of the original free pitch and makes for an incredible .11c. The third is at the end of the full free pitch. Descent from the top anchors is possible via a single 70m rope.