Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Kjell Swedin. FFA: Dan Lepeska
Page Views: 3,188 total · 22/month
Shared By: jonah on May 1, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

A beautiful route on great rock with a well-protected face crux followed by a perfect splitter 10+ finger lieback to thin hands crack. Not to be missed, especially because the scary old 1/4" bolt protecting the face crux was recently replaced with a bomber Petzl bolt courtesy of the Washington Climbers Coalition during the annual Index cleanup they sponsor.

Now that the entrance to this route is protected by a good bolt, this thing should become a popular alternative to Thin Fingers and other similar routes in the area.

Location

Uphill to the right from Thin Fingers about 40 feet. Follow the nicely maintained trail (again, thanks WCC volunteers) to a ledge below a blocky chimney (DO NOT CLIMB THIS CHIMNEY!). Traverse left from the ledge, reach out and clip the bolt, and it's on.

Protection

Gear to #2 Camalot and a handful of draws

Photos

moronbros  
 
I'd like to thank whoever placed those two bomber sport snap anchors up there. Not only are they shiny and new, but they make it simple to clip the rope in and rap off. The lieback is strenuous and fun. Aug 9, 2009
MorganH
 
MorganH  
 
It's also possible to approach the traverse more directly from below now, which is still kind of dirty, but reasonably enjoyable climbing. It probably adds about 30' to the route which makes it a bit fuller value. Not quite up to the quality of the rest of the LTW routes, although it may clean up in time. Oct 9, 2012
Eric Hirst  
 
Nice route that deserves a lot more traffic. The easiest Lower Wall 1st pitch that you haven't already done? 3 very distinct sections: grotty old-school 5.9, crazy-fun 11- bolted crux, then textbook off-fingers 5.10 laybacking to better jams near the top. Very safe, but pay attention to the the way your rope runs on the edge as you pucker up and commit to the final dihedral.

We used a single 70m but had a fair bit of rope left over. A single 60m would probably work as well. Jan 22, 2013
davidgilboy  
 
I aproached the traverse direct from the ground up and right of tatoosh, which added about 30+ feet of interesting climbing. Should not be missed. With some cleaning it should complete the experience. The one bolt is still holding up. Cool climbing, full value. Sep 6, 2014
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
  5.11b
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
  5.11b
Super fun bouldery crux to sustained laybacking and jamming. Gorgeous with great friction. The direct start is the way to go for sure, there's really no reason not to. Aug 17, 2015