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The Daily Planet
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 31
votes
Routes in The Sheriff's Badge
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A Fine Line T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Angel's Crest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Astronomy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blazing Saddles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Borderline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cowboys and Indians T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Daily Planet, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Daily Universe, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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French Free S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inseam, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| GPS: | 49.6885, -123.13937 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 12,101 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Stevens on Apr 7, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
daily planet
After doing the approach pitches of Borderline, scramble (read roped easy pitch) up to the base of the beautiful corner. Bolted belay.
p1. A full 30m of stemming and laybacks with most of the climbing in the 5.11 range. The crux is way up high where you encounter a bolt and a bit of a mystery move. Clip the bolt and go for it, easy to the anchors. A 60m rope BARELY makes it down. 5.12a, but easy for the grade, a good first 5.12 gear route.
p2. Some old bolts and bigger crack climbing. A shorter 5.10 pitch, really fun, can be linked with p.1. I believe the unfinish P. Croft route branches out left somewhere off this route.
p3. A wild 5.11- undercling, rightward traverse. Very cool and a must do.
p4. Reachy bolted face climbing pitch that does not get done too much, so you might find it dirty. 5.12b
You can rap from any pitch, wires and cams to 2.5" for the first pitch and some 3-4" gear for the 2nd pitch. Double set is plenty.
Photos
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