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The Daily Planet

5.12a, Trad, Sport,  Avg: 3.7 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Chief > Sheriff's Badge
Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

daily planet

After doing the approach pitches of Borderline, scramble (read roped easy pitch) up to the base of the beautiful corner. Bolted belay.

p1. A full 30m of stemming and laybacks with most of the climbing in the 5.11 range. The crux is way up high where you encounter a bolt and a bit of a mystery move. Clip the bolt and go for it, easy to the anchors. A 60m rope BARELY makes it down. 5.12a, but easy for the grade, a good first 5.12 gear route.

p2. Some old bolts and bigger crack climbing. A shorter 5.10 pitch, really fun, can be linked with p.1. I believe the unfinish P. Croft route branches out left somewhere off this route.

p3. A wild 5.11- undercling, rightward traverse. Very cool and a must do.

p4. Reachy bolted face climbing pitch that does not get done too much, so you might find it dirty. 5.12b

You can rap from any pitch, wires and cams to 2.5" for the first pitch and some 3-4" gear for the 2nd pitch. Double set is plenty.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Classic!
[Hide Photo] Classic!
A long ways to go on pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] A long ways to go on pitch 1.
Dr. Frirdich on pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Dr. Frirdich on pitch 2
wide layback section is the crux of pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] wide layback section is the crux of pitch 2.
nerve tingling exposure
[Hide Photo] nerve tingling exposure
Colum getting higher and higher on P1
[Hide Photo] Colum getting higher and higher on P1
Steep handjamming to finish
[Hide Photo] Steep handjamming to finish
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
Just past the crux.
[Hide Photo] Just past the crux.
Leg pumping rests.
[Hide Photo] Leg pumping rests.
Hello.
[Hide Photo] Hello.
Butt shot.
[Hide Photo] Butt shot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I sent and email to Ben asking if he was going to flesh this out. I haven't heard anything back so if anyone would like to do so, let me know. Apr 14, 2008
Evan Stevens
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Daily Planet is one of the 'easy' hardman routes...and it now goes to the top of the Sheriff's Badge via a half cleaned new route called the 'Fortress of Solitute'. Most people do the first pitch, and rap, but the next 2 pitches are great at 5.10b burly, and a wild 11a undercling pitch not to be missed. Fortress of solitude breaks off left of this pitch. Pitch 4 is a seldom done 12b face pitch.

Wires and cams to 2.5" for the first pitch and some 3-4" gear for the 2nd pitch. You can rap the first pitch with one 60m rope BARELY.

Remember you have to do 2 pitches to get to the start of the planet!

PS-hey admin, if you want me to rewrite this page, let me know! Jun 9, 2008
[Hide Comment] Evan, I've transfered the route to you. Have at it! I hope you don't mind Ben, but a full description is needed here. I kept the route as it was to preserve the picture until someone like Evan came along. Jun 10, 2008
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Loved this route! My boyfriend linked the 12a into the 10b pitch which set me up to lead the 11a roof pitch, which was awesome. We both fell trying the 12b above but I don't think it's really too hard, just bouldery. Jul 27, 2010
[Hide Comment] The Sheriff's Badge was entered into the database twice. To clean it up I had to remove the one route that was posted to the other entry. Here's the text of Colin Moorehead's posting for The Daily Planet:

Description

Pitch 1. 5.12a. Sustained stemming and laybacking with good rests. Powerful crux past a bolt near the top.

Pitch 2. 5.10b. Short chimney leads to sustained laybacking and handjamming. Burly pitch.

Pitch 3. 5.10d. Wild underclinging with some good handjams for resting and placing gear.

Pitch 4. 5.12b. Rarely climbed and even more rarely redpointed. 5.10b finger flake leads past sling belay (some people climb to here and bail). Reachy vertical face past 3- 1/4 inch bolts to station under the big roof.

Pitches 1,2 or 2,3 make excellent link ups that require big racks and mindful rope management to reduce drag.

Location

Approach via Borderline, Quickdraw,or Philistine Groove. 1 or 2 pitches.

If you can get up this section before it starts raining the entire Planet stays dry even in a complete downpour.

Protection

Double set of cams (1 #4 camalot optional for pitch 2)
One set of nuts.
Belay seat.
2 ropes to rappel. Sep 7, 2010
Alex Shainman
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Classic short route for sure! On P1, I wonder if the first pin, a thin knifeblade, could be replaced with a lost arrow without it snapping off. It sure flexes quite a lot. P3 traverse is killer...the bad pun is on the potential death flakes at it's start (but the worst of the worst can be carefully negotiated). If you want something to do instead of the original Rhinestone Cowboy finish (12b, new bolts!), there is a new "4th" pitch finish which, albeit some flakey/crunchy layers, is a great addition (11c)...kudos team (Colin Moorhead & Andre Ike)! It'll clean up at some point. One could link the traverse into this pitch but mind your rope/gear so it can't jam in the terminus of the flake underclings. New 4th follows old terrain past a fingers and smaller flake (but one could place a #2 Camalot), to 4 bolts protecting the remainder. 2 x 60M ropes work best to get down from top of P3 anchor to lowest ledge and avoids the exposed scrambling you went up. Jul 23, 2013
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] the 2nd pitch is burly! The squeeze chimney made the whole climb worthwhile. Great position! Jul 20, 2015