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Routes in The Sheriff's Badge

Angel's Crest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Astronomy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blazing Saddles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Daily Planet, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Daily Universe, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
High Plains Drifter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Beaubien, John Simpson, Perry Beckham 1982
Page Views: 7,671 total, 61/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 22, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

This climb is usually approached via the first two pitches of Borderline (5.10b, 5.8).

P1 - 5.10a - From the big treed ledge (aka The Terrace), head up the left facing corner on the far left side. A few moves of 5.9 laybacking lead to a stemmy/chimneyish exit move. Bolted anchor.

P2 - 5.10b - The money pitch. This thing is SWEET. Continue up the corner and make some moves over, on, and around the big, scary flake. This flake isn't going to last forever, and it'll be a bad day when it falls. Work the two parallel cracks (one is 3-5" and the other is 1-2") up the leaning wall until at the roof. The cracks offer excellent jamming, but the entire face leans to the right which significantly increases the pump! Undercling out the roof (green camalots) and pull the roof (crux) to another 10-15 feet of thin jamming. I didn't have a green camalot available when pulling the roof and was unhappy about it..... Bolted anchor.

Location

Far left side of The Terrace below the Sheriff's badge. Usually approached via the first two pitches of Borderline.

Rappel the route with one or two ropes.

Protection

Nuts and two sets of cams from #0.5-#3 camalot. You might want to throw in an extra green and red camalots, as the crack is mainly 1-2".
Natalie Nicole
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Natalie Nicole   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Top 100 Climb, but not a Top 100 Rappel.

The second pitch was great! I didn't read the MP comments beforehand and only brought 1 #.75; I would definitely second people's suggestions to bring at least 2 #.75's (especially if linking the two) and if you really want to sew it up, 3. Also, there were still a couple loose pieces so be aware.

The rap situation was less than ideal. Maybe we missed a set of proper rap anchors(?) but after looking at the previous comments, it seems like we did what everyone else did, which was rap to the previous belay. Our rope also got stuck in the flake and we had to relead and downlead that section to free the rope. Then the last section of the hike down to the hidden chains after getting to the terrace was very loose (dirt, rocks, etc.) with the potential to pitch off if you somehow lost traction. I was very surprised for a Top 100 route to have a less than direct/easy/safe descent.

Good climbing though, do it! Aug 6, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
The second pitch of this route is simply not to be missed- probably one of the best 5.10 pitches I've climbed in Squamish.

A few notes:

1) The first pitch is 5.9- and barely that.

2) Rack: If I were going to do it again, I'd bring the following rack: 1 each Blue Alien through Gold Camalot, 2 each #0.5, 1, and 4 camalots, and 3 #0.75 camalots. No #3s are needed at any point on the route or for the start of Borderline.

Save a red camalot and all three greens for the last 25' of the money pitch. You can also get away with a single #4 if you're comfortable at the grade, as you just slide it up as you go. A second one would take the edge off that if you're at your limit.

3) Descent: Single ropes back down- watch the first rap, we got our rope stuck (first time in Squamish) in the flakes. Traverse over and down the dirty trail (be careful) to a set of hidden chains next to a big tree sticking out off the ledge.

This route would be a great pit stop on your way up Borderline. Jul 16, 2017
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10+
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10+
Excellent route. We approached by the first two pitches of Borderline for a fun four-pitch outing, shady and cool on a hot hot summer day. Mostly easy jamming in the range from 0.75 - #3 Camalots, very little need for anything smaller (though you'll want a single rack down to a red C3 or equivalent.) Recommended a #4 though, I used it to bump up the left crack of the money pitch for its entire length.

p1 (p1 of Borderline): A few in-your-face bolt-protected face climbing moves off the ground get your attention right away. After you pass the second bolt the climbing gets much simpler and more straight forward as you jam through a dihedral for another 30m or so. After a sustained section of red Camalots and mantling past a tree, look out left onto the face to find a bolted anchor with rap rings. Very fun climbing. ~40m, 10-.

p2 (5.8 variation of p2 Borderline): Easy climbing that continues up the dihedral feature. Continue up until you have 5.0 jugs for your hands to traverse right. A few tricky and steep 5.8 tips locks (good feet) take you up to the tree roots. Mantle up to The Terrace and traverse right until you can sling a tree underneath Blazing Saddles proper. ~30m, 5.8

p3 (p1 of Blazing Saddles): Pretty chill and straight-forward jamming, again in a dihedral, easier than I was anticipating. Jam up to a small roof, chimney for a few moves, find a place to step left and stem securely, then move left past the tree to a bolt anchor with raw bolt hangers. If you're heading up and want to do something nice for the community, take up some beefy quicklinks and chains for rappelling ease. Some people have left a bunch of tat on the hangers, we rapped off the tree. Honestly, since rapping is the only option this station should be properly set up for it. If I do the route again soon I'll put some up. ~25m, 5.9

p4 (p2 of Blazing Saddles): This pitch is absolutely stunning. Exceptional quality jamming, thugging and problem-solving. The climbing up to this point is generally very pleasant, but this pitch is a blockbuster. After gingerly climbing past the massive flake poised directly over your belayer, begin a 20m battle up a fists-to-wide-fists splitter on the left and a fingers to thin-hands flake on the right up a steep (feels slightly more than vertical?) wall to an adequate rest under the roof. Undercling out the roof (easier than it looks), and pull the roof on ring-locks, jamming and laybacking up sustained rings to chain anchors. Pulling the roof felt really hard for the grade to me, and would agree that an extra 0.75 is a good thing to have on the pitch. ~30m, 10+

Rappel to The Terrace, then walk south until you see a trail branching off right to the Quicksilver & Philistine Groove chain anchors. Rappel down in 2 raps using an intermediate bolted anchor that is hard to see when beginning rapping. Jul 30, 2016
AJV
  5.10b
AJV  
  5.10b
YEEEEHAW! The second pitch is among the best I've done in Squamish. Jul 10, 2013
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10b
We climbed this a couple weeks ago and I'd like to confirm that the loose stuff has been removed. Other than the massive flake, this thing is secure. Also, one more vote for linking the pitches. Aug 11, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
you could take new #4 camalots and sew up the fist crack at left if you didn't want to mess with .75s / #1s and #2s behind the flake. I disagree with placing a piece or two above the roof as this will get your rope stuck if it sucks in there. Maybe my method wasn't amazing either (placing a .5 right above the #4 crack in the roof then running it out to the anchors) but it does allow the rope to run through the crack instead of across the edge of the lip for the second. Amazing money pitch that shouldn't be missed! You can climb the whole thing on a single 70 and manage to rap back down to the start of borderline (use the tree tat rap partway up borderline P1). Aug 8, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I agree with Danielle. I did the route again and there are definitely some sketchy loose blocks. I'd bring 3x#0.75 camalots if you are squeemish, and save 2 of them for the roof and topout. A stiff 10b for Squamish.

#3 camalots did not fit in the left/bigger crack... A #4 would fit, but you are better off bring more tight hands pieces and placing them in the right crack.

Watch out pulling your ropes... as they like to snag at the base of p2. Jul 30, 2009
danelle
Seattle, WA
danelle   Seattle, WA
Did this route to free an enticing yellow cam. Um LOOSE SHIT on this route strange since it is so popular..Stepped on a block that nearly missed my belayer. Be careful. Aug 24, 2008
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
It would be easy to miss the first bolted belay on Borderline. After you pull up through some trees on the first pitch and get to a great ledge, look around the corner to the left. The bolts are there, presumably to make pulling rappel ropes easier. I could easily imagine missing them and building a gear belay. On our way down there was another party who had missed them.

As Andy mentioned, for the second pitch of Blazing Saddles, save a piece or two for after you pull the roof. .75 Camalot is perfect, but some large nuts work too. This is definitely the most strenuous part, so the ideal would be to have two .75s and place one at the lip and one between the lip and the anchor. May 26, 2008
Doug D
Park City, Utah
 
Doug D   Park City, Utah
 
We linked the first two pitches of Borderline with a 70. And linked Blazing Saddles and did it in one. Great climb. Aug 28, 2007