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Routes in The Sheriff's Badge

Angel's Crest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Astronomy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blazing Saddles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Daily Planet, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Daily Universe, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
High Plains Drifter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Raoul Sauco, Jake Darmopil
Page Views: 13,095 total, 110/month
Shared By: Colin Moorhead on Feb 20, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Pitch 1. 5.10c-11a. Beautiful, sustained, gently overhanging hands. Over graded in current guidebooks.

Pitch 2. 5.11c. challenging hands and fingers. As the crack peters out make a committing reach (dyno for the short) to a decent hold and pull over the arete. Very exciting, but safe with good pro.

Pitch 3. 5.5 easy slab climbing to the top.

Location

Just to the right of the last pitches of Angel's Crest...amazing 2 pitches.

Protection

Double set of cams, 4-6 gold camalots for pitch one. No bigger than #3 camalot.
Eric Hirst  
 
Mark, there are bolted anchors on top of all 3 pitches. I'm quite sure you could rap after the 1st pitch with a single 70m rope, although that particular set of bolts was showing signs of corrosion when I was just there. Also, while the final move on P2 is definitely the redpoint crux of the whole link-up, it shouldn't be that hard off the dog if you end up resorting to a little aid at the top of the crack. Sep 7, 2017
I'm 5' and I could reach it. But, the 1st pitch was spicy with 3 pieces. Jul 28, 2017
Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
Brought 3 #2s, and bumped them enough that I only placed 2. As said before double rack with a single #3 (consider saving it for towards the end) should safely see the competent crack climber through this climb as I don't believe the crux of the pitch was the handcrack.

2nd pitch crux, 6'4" wingspan made the reach easy, met a guy with a 5'7" wingspan who said he couldn't make the move. YMMV.

Bring lots of water if climbing Borderline/Angels Crest to get up there as the 2 hardest pitches are the final 2 and dehydration definitely didn't help. On the plus side I'm pretty sure that HPD stays in the shade all day, it was still in the shade at 6 pm when we were finishing up. Jun 24, 2017
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Holy Jesus! ∆∆∆ Marc Andre makes HPD look absolutely trivial. How tall is that guy anyway? It's nice to see a Clydesdale flow up the rock like that! Mar 3, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
youtube.com/watch?v=QJQYW3S…

What's the beta on anchors on this route? Are there bolted anchors or gear anchors? Is it possible to climb the first pitch only and rap down to finish on Angel's Crest? I heard the 11c pitch is tough and from the sounds of things it doesn't sound very aid-able - I'd like to try this route but am concerned about leaving a bunch of gear if we can't make the upper crux work. Nov 29, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
From Colin's original description, which has combined with this one...

Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade IV
Consensus: YDS: 5.11c
FA: Raoul Sauco, Jake Darmopil

Description
Pitch 1. 5.10c. Beautiful, sustained, gently overhanging hands. Over graded in current guidebooks.

Pitch 2. 5.11c. challenging hands and fingers. As the crack peters out make a committing reach (dyno for the short) to a decent hold and pull over the arete. Very exciting, but safe with good pro.

Pitch 3. 5.5 easy slab climbing to the top.

Location
High Plains Sector.

From pitch 10 of Angels Crest traverse ledge approximately 50 meters and scurry up short gully to spacious ledge.

Protection
Double set of cams, 4-6 gold camalots for pitch one. No bigger than #3 camalot. Sep 5, 2015
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
We just did this link up a couple of days ago and it was pretty sweet. We simuled all the middle stuff between Borderline and High Plains Drifter. My boyfriend led Borderline and I followed it, definitly wishing I'd taped up as I'm a smaller girl and had my whole arm in there. Definitly a long day! Jul 27, 2010
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
  5.11c
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
  5.11c
For Borderline> Angels Crest > High Plains

doubles from .5 to #2 camalot,a single of #3 and #4, double green and yellow aliens, one blue alien(or whatever if you don't like aliens) and some medium and small stoppers. 8 runners. lots of water. most will need an an early start

Borderline is technical and can be slow climbing. Bolts on the face pitches and a bolted chimney. The .11c crux takes small nuts and cams. Watch for drag on the last pitch.

from the end of Borderline either solo or simul the Crest to the base of High Plains. Pitching this part out too much wastes time.

Save some gas for High Plains. It's physical. Take some extra hand and fist gear for this if you don't like running it out a bit or you can walk the #3. You'll likely want to tape up for this first pitch, there's no stopper move and a competent 5.10 jammer shouldn't have too much trouble. It'd get 10c/d in the Valley. Save some small cams for the top of High Plains P2. Exposed! Awesome finish!

Worth repeating: plenty of water/snacks, tape for high plains Mar 13, 2008
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
That sounds like really tiring day! I would like to try Borderline to Angel's Crest, and Angel's Crest to High Plains Drifter separately first.

Any additional comments on the gear required? Mar 10, 2008
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
  5.11c
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
  5.11c
Borderline>Angels Crest>High Plains makes for a great day out. Mar 9, 2008