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Routes in The Sheriff's Badge

Angel's Crest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Astronomy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blazing Saddles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Daily Planet, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Daily Universe, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
High Plains Drifter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Peter Croft
Page Views: 429 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dylan Cousins on Feb 18, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

P1 - Climb the obvious overhanging finger crack. Consistently difficult moves through the lower 40 feet of this climb. After the finger crack, pull left out of the roof (about 5.10) to a bolted anchor.

P2 - I didn't climb the 10c corner above this, but the rock looks great! Unfortunately, it also looks rather dirty these days. If you want to do this pitch, prepare for some cleaning!

Location

This route begins on the large ledge after the first two pitches of Borderline. It is about 50 meters to the right of Blazing Saddles. There are bolts located about 5 meters away from the bottom of the crack. A small easy fifth class step is required to get to these bolts. If you are at the belay for the first pitch of daily planet, then you're too high.

Protection

Lots of finger size cams as well as some hands.

Photos

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Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
Didn't come close to sending my first time on it but I think this thing is way harder than most of the other 12a pitches I've been on in Squamish and elsewhere, the only local climb that comes close is the crux of Unbearable. Steep fingerlocks with bad/nonexistent feet require a lot of lockoff strength to get through. The current select guide calls it 5.12a and 5.12b in different places but I'd say it's definitely on the mid 12 side of things, unless power endurance and lock off strength is your strong point.

Double rack up to 0.5 or 0.75 with singles up to hands to send, triples in the fingers might help if you want to work the moves, a blue alien and a brass offset nut can be placed right before entering the crux from a good stance and without taking up useful fingerlocks. A #3 is potentially useful but not required. Overall a nice change from slabby squamish finger locks. Jun 24, 2017