Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kai Hirvonen June 2002
Page Views: 1,044 total · 8/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 22, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


A long, bolted arete that leads to The Terrace. A fine approach to Blazing-Saddles if Borderline is taken.

P1 - 5.10c (45m) Starts just left of Phillistine Groove (the dirty looking corner system) on the forested ledge the leads to the start of Borderline. The first section is up steep and broken rock and the bolts are plainly visible from the approach trail. Pull through the steep rock (5.9+) and onto a long, low angled arete. Balancy, well protected climbing (5.10c) leads to a bolted anchor

P2 - 5.11a (15m) - Cruxy climbing through two bolts right above the belay. I ended up pulling into the groove for 10 feet and then back out onto the face for the last bolt. After clipping the last bolt, more hard moves on the face lead to the anchor. You could stay out on the face, but there weren't any bolts and it seemed natural to step right.


Starts on the ledge below the Terrace (about 50 feet right of the start of Borderline)

Descent - Rap the route with one rope via two rappels. These anchors are the common descent from the Terrace, so expect company on busy days.




The guidebook describes this route as contrived, and as Andy mentions, it's too tempting to move into the crack for at least a short stretch. It looks like a bolt above the current third bolt must have been removed, although I didn't search for any evidence.

We used the crack too, although afterwards I tried the moves avoiding the crack and found them entirely doable and at a similar difficulty to the rest of the route. If the crack wasn't there, and these moves were mandatory, it would have to be considered a fine route and tough for the grade, but the crack is there, and especially with a bolt apparently missing, that's where most people will end up.

The crack, in its entirety, is the route Philistine Groove (5.11a). It's not entirely clear from the guidebook, but it seems possible that the section you move into at the third bolt on Quickdraw is the 11a part of Philistine Groove. I'd have to do the entire route to be sure. May 25, 2008
Easy to link both pitches with a 70m (60m would probably also work). A reasonable alternative to get up to Blazing Saddles if Borderline is crowded or you want to do some sport climbing instead. Second pitch you can do from the face and only use the crack for an extra piece of pro to help out the follower. Apr 11, 2016