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The Daily Universe
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in The Sheriff's Badge
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A Fine Line T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Angel's Crest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Astronomy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blazing Saddles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Borderline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cowboys and Indians T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Daily Planet, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Daily Universe, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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French Free S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inseam, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 17 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6885, -123.13937 |
| FA: | August 2015 |
| Page Views: | 3,862 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | tonymclane McLane on Aug 31, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The Daily Universe 5.12b FA Tony McLane Jorge Ackermann August 21, 2015
Pitch 1-2 borderline. 5 10b - 5.8
Pitch 3 to 6 The Daily Planet 5.12a(b) finish via original Beckham/Sandhal 5.12b or Moorhead/Ike 5.11c. Either way end on Beckham/Sandhal anchors.
Pitch 7 - 5.11c 25m Face climb right to obvious jug, traverse right along wide crack. 3 bolts one #4
Pitch 8 - 5.12c 20m , 5 bolts #2 #3 #.5 Extend first 4 bolts. Good rests, big holds, nice exposure. Number 3 after 2nd bolt is useful for a dogging second. Off route Bolt in upper roof after 3rd bolt is a direct open project.
Pitch 9 5.12a 60m face climb left to bolt, #.75(double runner) in undercling. clipping badge aid route bolt out left will result in heinous drag. Climb up and right towards sharp flakes. wandering positive climbing to horizontal(#1). Positive edges above, then Traverse into final roof 5.9 (aidline)7 bolts total.
Pitch 10 5.10c 15m step right of aid line into obvious crack traverse back left onto ledge. Belay takes #1,#2.
Pitch 11 5.11d 35 lay back or jam crack. pro blue tcu to #2. 1 bolt
Pitch 12-17 angels crest
All stations bolted expect pitch 8. Helmets recommended.
Traverse Sasquatch ledge. short pitch to easily traversed ledge. Climb into angels crest or high plains drifter if you're still hungry
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