Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 17 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,395 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||tonymclane McLane on Aug 31, 2015|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Pitch 1-2 borderline. 5 10b - 5.8
Pitch 3 to 6 The Daily Planet 5.12a(b) finish via original Beckham/Sandhal 5.12b or Moorhead/Ike 5.11c. Either way end on Beckham/Sandhal anchors.
Pitch 7 - 5.11c 25m Face climb right to obvious jug, traverse right along wide crack. 3 bolts one #4
Pitch 8 - 5.12c 20m , 5 bolts #2 #3 #.5 Extend first 4 bolts. Good rests, big holds, nice exposure. Number 3 after 2nd bolt is useful for a dogging second. Off route Bolt in upper roof after 3rd bolt is a direct open project.
Pitch 9 5.12a 60m face climb left to bolt, #.75(double runner) in undercling. clipping badge aid route bolt out left will result in heinous drag. Climb up and right towards sharp flakes. wandering positive climbing to horizontal(#1). Positive edges above, then Traverse into final roof 5.9 (aidline)7 bolts total.
Pitch 10 5.10c 15m step right of aid line into obvious crack traverse back left onto ledge. Belay takes #1,#2.
Pitch 11 5.11d 35 lay back or jam crack. pro blue tcu to #2. 1 bolt
Pitch 12-17 angels crest
All stations bolted expect pitch 8. Helmets recommended.
Traverse Sasquatch ledge. short pitch to easily traversed ledge. Climb into angels crest or high plains drifter if you're still hungry