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Routes in South Rock

Agent Orange T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Airy Scary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eagle's Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unknown (South Face Left) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (South Face Right) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This climb, the rightmost of the 3 bolted routes on South Rock, is another overlooked climb at Tres Piedras. It's well-protected, on good rock, with fun climbing. It's an excellent choice for someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.

Start just to the left of the Eagle's Nest crack.
Cruise up fun face climbing on good rock with good horizontal holds, you pass through some overlaps. The crux is pulling through a bulge up high and protected by a bolt. As with many climbs at TP, move left or right a few feet as it feels appropriate so as to find the easiest passage.

Location

This is the right of the 3 bolted lines on the south face of South Rock. This climb begins just left of the obvious crack climb Eagle's Nest.

This is Unknown climb #6 in Taos Rock.

A common anchor for the 3 bolted climbs is reached by this route, and a single rope rappel gets you down.

Protection

4 bolts protect most of this route, but you'll likely place a couple pieces of gear (probably on the smaller side things, from TCUs up to #1 camalot).

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