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Routes in South Rock
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Agent Orange T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Airy Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Unknown (South Face Left) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown (South Face Middle) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (South Face Right) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Paul Davidson, John Fleming, Jim Haisley |
| Page Views: | 614 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Davidson on Feb 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's (blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) (bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG (nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Description
A short but challenging route. Doesn't look like much (it's not) but the moves are actually decent overhanging cranks. My recollection is it felt closer to a 12b than an a. But then it was cold and wet so...
Possibly just a high ball for some of you these days with a good pad.
Two bolts and a few pieces will get you up the overhanging seam and onto the west face slabs.
Good climb to do when the weather has screwed you from doing anything else at TP. It's steep enough that the rock will stay dry for quite awhile.
We put this up sometime in the early '90s when we got nailed by a fall rain. This was the only dry rock around. We were hanging out staying dry when I started bouldering the start and realized there was a decent little problem to be had there.
Unfortunately, it took us over an hour per bolt to hand drill the darn things. Half way into the first hole the bit broke and the second bit had a taper that caused continual binding in the hole. We weren't going anywhere though and this was one way to stay warm.
And yes, it was ground up, all 30 or so feet of it.
Possibly just a high ball for some of you these days with a good pad.
Two bolts and a few pieces will get you up the overhanging seam and onto the west face slabs.
Good climb to do when the weather has screwed you from doing anything else at TP. It's steep enough that the rock will stay dry for quite awhile.
We put this up sometime in the early '90s when we got nailed by a fall rain. This was the only dry rock around. We were hanging out staying dry when I started bouldering the start and realized there was a decent little problem to be had there.
Unfortunately, it took us over an hour per bolt to hand drill the darn things. Half way into the first hole the bit broke and the second bit had a taper that caused continual binding in the hole. We weren't going anywhere though and this was one way to stay warm.
And yes, it was ground up, all 30 or so feet of it.
Location
On the left side of the South Face of South Rock is a large pine and a right leaning seam through overhanging rock with 2 bolts. I remember the bolts as being right of the pine.
Climb this right leaning seam up past the two bolts to where you go straight up past the top bolt which will dump you onto the west face ramps. Easy ground leads to the summit. From the second bolt, the longer you stay right and on the steep face, the more worthwhile moves you'll add to this climb.
At the time, we set a belay once on the ramps and then 3rd classed down the wet slabs rather than finishing up to the top. Seams (sic) like we might have tossed the rope over a bush or something to quasi TR down the last person.
Climb this right leaning seam up past the two bolts to where you go straight up past the top bolt which will dump you onto the west face ramps. Easy ground leads to the summit. From the second bolt, the longer you stay right and on the steep face, the more worthwhile moves you'll add to this climb.
At the time, we set a belay once on the ramps and then 3rd classed down the wet slabs rather than finishing up to the top. Seams (sic) like we might have tossed the rope over a bush or something to quasi TR down the last person.
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