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Routes in South Rock
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Agent Orange T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Airy Scary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Puddin' T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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South Face Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Face Left T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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South Face Right T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Unknown Route S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Route (right of Eagle's Nest) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Paul Davidson, John Fleming, Jim Haisley |
| Page Views: | 934 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Davidson on Feb 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
A short but challenging route. Doesn't look like much (it's not) but the moves are actually decent overhanging cranks. My recollection is it felt closer to a 12b than an a. But then it was cold and wet so...
Possibly just a high ball for some of you these days with a good pad.
Two bolts and a few pieces will get you up the overhanging seam and onto the west face slabs.
Good climb to do when the weather has screwed you from doing anything else at TP. It's steep enough that the rock will stay dry for quite awhile.
We put this up sometime in the early '90s when we got nailed by a fall rain. This was the only dry rock around. We were hanging out staying dry when I started bouldering the start and realized there was a decent little problem to be had there.
Unfortunately, it took us over an hour per bolt to hand drill the darn things. Half way into the first hole the bit broke and the second bit had a taper that caused continual binding in the hole. We weren't going anywhere though and this was one way to stay warm.
And yes, it was ground up, all 30 or so feet of it.
Possibly just a high ball for some of you these days with a good pad.
Two bolts and a few pieces will get you up the overhanging seam and onto the west face slabs.
Good climb to do when the weather has screwed you from doing anything else at TP. It's steep enough that the rock will stay dry for quite awhile.
We put this up sometime in the early '90s when we got nailed by a fall rain. This was the only dry rock around. We were hanging out staying dry when I started bouldering the start and realized there was a decent little problem to be had there.
Unfortunately, it took us over an hour per bolt to hand drill the darn things. Half way into the first hole the bit broke and the second bit had a taper that caused continual binding in the hole. We weren't going anywhere though and this was one way to stay warm.
And yes, it was ground up, all 30 or so feet of it.
Location
On the left side of the South Face of South Rock is a large pine and a right leaning seam through overhanging rock with 2 bolts. I remember the bolts as being right of the pine.
Climb this right leaning seam up past the two bolts to where you go straight up past the top bolt which will dump you onto the west face ramps. Easy ground leads to the summit. From the second bolt, the longer you stay right and on the steep face, the more worthwhile moves you'll add to this climb.
At the time, we set a belay once on the ramps and then 3rd classed down the wet slabs rather than finishing up to the top. Seams (sic) like we might have tossed the rope over a bush or something to quasi TR down the last person.
Climb this right leaning seam up past the two bolts to where you go straight up past the top bolt which will dump you onto the west face ramps. Easy ground leads to the summit. From the second bolt, the longer you stay right and on the steep face, the more worthwhile moves you'll add to this climb.
At the time, we set a belay once on the ramps and then 3rd classed down the wet slabs rather than finishing up to the top. Seams (sic) like we might have tossed the rope over a bush or something to quasi TR down the last person.
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