Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Bruce Holthouse, late 1970s
Page Views: 855 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on May 2, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

The name says it all. (Although it originally had no name.)

Start below a small triangular roof, pull up to a solid-looking 1/4" bolt. Face climb up to a roof (pro in crack) and traverse right on solid flakes, or take a more direct line with scarcer pro, to a roof below a piton. Turn the roof which is surprisingly easy and protects well with a nut. From the piton to the next bolt up and right is the technical but well-protected crux with off-balance moves (AIRY!). Up from here past a 2nd piton leads to a series of knobs that lead to a deadend up and right, and the realization that what you need to do is leave the good knobs and take off on a slab traverse to the left with hands on a down-slanting "rail" about 10-15' above the pin (5.10R, SCARY!). My guess is you're looking at 30' fall if you came off on this section. Don't do that. Join the finish of Zig Zag Man through big plates/chickenheads to the top. Build a belay where convenient. Scramble right to get to the rappel anchors.

Excellent fun climbing, with intriguing moves at the cruxes and interesting route finding, but in my opinion a little bit scarier than most other climbs at the 5.11- grade at TP.

Location

Airy Scary is near the left side of the south face of South Rock. You can pick out the first bolt above a triangular roof near the ground.

Descent: 1 rappel from the top down the south side, near Eagle's Nest, with a single 60m rope.

Protection

Cams to 2", nuts. You pass 2 bolts and 2 pitons on the way.

Photos