Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: Peter Prandoni and Bruce Holthouse, 1979
Page Views: 4,204 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Jul 14, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details


Area classic! Climb straight up and over the left side of the short bisected buttress above resembling two heads (ala Easter Island) or more simply... a butt. While a belay can be set up below the buttress, the route can be done easily in 1 pitch with a 60m rope.


Ascends the slab forming the west face of South Rock, easily accessed from the main approach trail. Rappel (double-rope, or will barely work with 1 60m rope) the north side from shared anchors or walk off to the northeast (tricky and exposed).


Mixed trad w/ bolts (3). Carry a light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams, long slings) to supplement bolts. Shares anchor (two bolts with chains) with Surface Tension (5.11-).