Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Horak, Mark Leonard
Page Views: 1,297 total · 9/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jul 18, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Excellent friction climbing on this one. Bolts close together at the crux make this a good one to try 5.11 slab, but it does take climbing a section of 5.9+ or 5.10 slab with pro far apart to get there.

Pitch 1. Clip the low bolt and make an awkward 5.10 move onto an easy ramp. This section can be avoided by starting farther right, but if you want to avoid this move, you'll probably be better off avoiding the rest of the climb too. A directional piece above this move is a good idea to protect the follower. Follow the easy ramp up and left to a ledge below a vertical crack. Build an anchor here, unless you have reason to do the climb in a single 60m pitch.

Pitch 2. Start up the slab, clip the first piton, work left and up on thin slab to the 2nd pin (5.9+ or 5.10 R) It's rather heady between the pitons but they are bomber. A few more moves gain a diagonal crack, and you get more pro, any cam 1"- 3" works. An intimidating but easy move puts you within reach of the first bolt on the final slab headwall. The well-protected face gets blanker and blanker with the hardest "surface tension" moves getting to the final bolt (crux).

An intermediate belay at the ledge below the pitons and/or the final headwall is recommended to reduce rope drag, although I found it tolerable to climb the whole route in a single 58m pitch- a good idea if you have 3 people.

Location

Start below a single bolt about 10' uphill and left of Yikes Dikes on the west side of the north face of South Rock.

Protection

1 bolt down low, then 2 fixed pins, then 3 bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor, with some of your own trad gear in between..

1 60m rope works to descend the North side in a single rap. Find the center.

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