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Routes in South Rock

Agent Orange T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Airy Scary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eagle's Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unknown (South Face Left) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (South Face Right) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Horak, Mark Leonard
Page Views: 1,171 total, 9/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jul 18, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Excellent friction climbing on this one. Bolts close together at the crux make this a good one to try 5.11 slab, but it does take climbing a section of 5.9+ or 5.10 slab with pro far apart to get there.

Pitch 1. Clip the low bolt and make an awkward 5.10 move onto an easy ramp. This section can be avoided by starting farther right, but if you want to avoid this move, you'll probably be better off avoiding the rest of the climb too. A directional piece above this move is a good idea to protect the follower. Follow the easy ramp up and left to a ledge below a vertical crack. Build an anchor here, unless you have reason to do the climb in a single 60m pitch.

Pitch 2. Start up the slab, clip the first piton, work left and up on thin slab to the 2nd pin (5.9+ or 5.10 R) It's rather heady between the pitons but they are bomber. A few more moves gain a diagonal crack, and you get more pro, any cam 1"- 3" works. An intimidating but easy move puts you within reach of the first bolt on the final slab headwall. The well-protected face gets blanker and blanker with the hardest "surface tension" moves getting to the final bolt (crux).

An intermediate belay at the ledge below the pitons and/or the final headwall is recommended to reduce rope drag, although I found it tolerable to climb the whole route in a single 58m pitch- a good idea if you have 3 people.

Location

Start below a single bolt about 10' uphill and left of Yikes Dikes on the west side of the north face of South Rock.

Protection

1 bolt down low, then 2 fixed pins, then 3 bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor, with some of your own trad gear in between..

1 60m rope works to descend the North side in a single rap. Find the center.

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arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11- PG13
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11- PG13
The above comments made me nervous about leading this climb, but the lower runout parts were fine (and there is good gear for backup, which I used) if you're going to cruise the delicate upper part that's well bolted. It's a really nice climb with good pro where you need it, and I encourage a strong slab climber to go for it and not get scared off by the above. Aug 8, 2012
Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
Damn 5.10 slab! Quite a difficult and though provoking section between the pitons. Unfortunately I did fall on the first piton. Fortunately it held. I had nightmares of it not holding. One could back it up with a blue and purple tcu as well. Thunderstorms and lightning cut the climb short. Maybe next time. Aug 29, 2011
Stu Ritchie
Denver
Stu Ritchie   Denver
Although the harder sections are short, it's still a true test piece of both your mental fortitude and thin slab technique! This is indeed a surprisingly excellent route! I would also call the pin-protected slab full blown 5.10R! I was able to back the 1st pin up with a yellow Alien and #3 RP, but was concerned that the whole flakey bit might blow out from a fall near the next pin clip, the consequence of which would be quite painful. Sep 26, 2010
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.11c PG13
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.11c PG13
The first ascent was actually by Paul Horak, Mark Leonard in Aug 1985. According to Paul Horak's notes, Mark led the runout pitch without the second pin, which was apparently added later--grinning all the way no doubt! Aug 12, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11- PG13
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11- PG13
Williampenner wrote:The crux at the last bolt is well protected and you could spit on the summit, but I always fall there just within a few feet of success. That really sucks because you know you have to climb the run-out part again.
Exactly my thoughts! I was psyched to have gotten through the lower run-out section only to come off two moves from the top. I'm still working up the gumption to get back on lead of that pitch again. When I was leading through that run-out "pins" section I specifically remember thinking, "Why the hell did I sign up for this?" I loved it. Aug 12, 2008
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Great route and thought provoking as Paul and Bob noted. The crux at the last bolt is well protected and you could spit on the summit, but I always fall there just within a few feet of success. That really sucks because you know you have to climb the run-out part again. Aug 12, 2008
I agree with Bob, I'm real glad I didn't have to lead that slab past that pin. Aug 12, 2008
Mike Howard    
FA Doug Bridgers?

"Felt all of 5.10R "SLAB" to Bob D'? Makes my palms sweat and I think I just vomited a little in the back of my throat. Expect a memorable climb. Oct 22, 2007