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Routes in South Rock

Agent Orange T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Airy Scary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eagle's Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unknown (South Face Left) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (South Face Right) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 819 total, 8/month
Shared By: jmeizis on Oct 5, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This is a fantastic climb following a corner system on the right/east end of South Rock. The pro can be tricky near the crux but it's placed from a semi-decent stance after that it eases off a little. Really fun and powerful moves.

Location

This is a left facing crack system right of a right facing hand crack. The line goes straight up through a bulge to anchors. It's the first crack you come to after the traverse on the east end of the crag when heading west.

Protection

Bolted anchor. Need small cams/nuts/ballnuts for the crux bulge. Yellow and orange TCU's are key pieces.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.10
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.10
My rack recommendation: single set of cams from a 00 C3/TCU (~.4 in) to #1 camalot (~1.5 in). Extra finger sized pieces (e.g. .3 - .5 camalots) useful. Nuts could certainly be useful, but I didn't place any.

Excellent climb, and certainly appears intimidating from the ground. I didn't feel any less intimidated after climbing it though! Certainly a step up in difficulty and commitment from Eagle's Nest , which is nominally rated the same. Jul 4, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b
This line is identifiable by two bulges each with big streaks of bird poop on them. The poop isn't an issue while climbing, though. It looks improbably steep for 10-. Quite fun. Jun 14, 2010