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Routes in South Rock

Agent Orange T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Airy Scary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unknown (South Face Left) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (South Face Right) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 142 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This good crack climb is the obvious finger crack just right of center on the south face of South Rock.

Follow the 5.8 finger crack for the first 40' of the climb. The route's crux is a bulge, which is well-protected by 1" cams and great stopper placements. Fun moves through this short crux lead to a big ledge. Walk left 15' to the anchor.

The Original Route of Eagles Nest traverses right just before the crux bulge is reached, keeping the climb at 5.7, passing a location where a vacated eagle's nest is (or was).

Location

The obvious finger crack right of center on the south face of South Rock, beginning just right of some boulders.

Rappel from the anchor for the bolted route to its left with a 60m rope to descend (recommended), or scramble down a gully to the East (not recommended).

Protection

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3". Doubles in the finger-size range might be useful.
Rappel from the bolted anchor for the bolted climbs to the left of this route.
[The book mentions a fixed webbing anchor, but that wasn't there in 2013.]

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