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Routes in Bighorn Mating Grotto

Caught Inside on a Big Set T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dangling Woo Li Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Euphrates T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Morning Thunder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Take Two, They're Small T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Margy Floyd, Kelly Carignan 1985
Page Views: 73 total, 1/month
Shared By: john durr on Mar 27, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Lieback up a wide crack crux, then move left 10 feet to another hard move up a short crack to the belay of Dangling Woo Li Master.


This wide crack is about 30 feet left of Dangling Woo Li Master and just left of Euphrates. Descent is to walk across slab north then down gully, 5 minutes.


A couple hand sized cams and a 4" cam will do fine. A 3" cam and a bolt for the belay.


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Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
I did this one without knowing any information about it. The crack is a bit wider than I thought. I would have liked 2 #4's but I managed with one. I anticipated the belay would be on the shelf after the wide crack ends. This is not the case. You move left another 15-20 feet to a short, flaring crack that takes a mediocre #1 cam. After this short cruxy move, it's easy to the top. I didn't see a bolt for the anchor. Walked off, although I probably could have rapped Dangling Woo Li Master. Jan 27, 2014
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
FA. Margy Floyd, Kelly Carignan 1985 Nov 1, 2009