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Routes in Bighorn Mating Grotto

Caught Inside on a Big Set T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dangling Woo Li Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Euphrates T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Morning Thunder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Take Two, They're Small T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Evans and Craig Fry, February 1985
Page Views: 5,308 total, 27/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Directly across from the Book of Changes, jam and layback a steep thin hand crack. Higher, step right into a wide hand crack. Straightforward walk off.

Protection

to 3.5". 3-4" anchor.
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
P1 descent via exposed entry to go down steep chimney prob not advisable for most pushing the limit on this climb

elaborating on Joe Dawson's description of the descent off of the summit after P2, as you walk toward the Owl Pinnacle, the tree rap slings are down low to its left. then facing the wall you had just rapped down, follow that wall to climber's right to a deep cavernous gap. it looks cliffed out from the top at first, but there're out-of-sight ledges down the inside wall underneath you. possible to build anchor and let second(s) rap down first. then when last person downclimbs, the top of that is protectable with slung #4 and #3 until foot touches down on the topmost of those inside ledges. then out that cave to scramble up to the Book Of Changes rap anchor May 28, 2017
Leif  
Amazing place. Just beautiful and awesome. Climb it. So much more fun than getting pummeled while caught inside. Nov 22, 2014
Richard Shore
  5.10b
Richard Shore  
  5.10b
My 500th route in JTree, and possibly in my top 10 favorites here. I felt this was a touch harder than Dangling Woo Li Master, but I think being tall allowed me to simply reach past most of the crux moves on that route. I watched 3 other parties have difficulties with CIOABS, and all of them cruised DWLM easily. Mar 26, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
The 2nd pitch looked pretty trivial and we were at dusk needing to get out, so we we scrambled off the first pitch. It was probably 5.0-5.3 scrambling, nothing too hard. We headed climbers right then down, did a little chimneying, climbed up all land of the lost style over the low wall with the easy crack and back into the grotto oasis.

A pretty cool climb, although, as previously noted, it is probably overrated in difficulty as it was no harder than Dangling Woo Li Master.

Definitely coming back to this spot! Jan 5, 2012
Andre Kovacs
san diego, ca
 
Andre Kovacs   san diego, ca
 
Possibly the best route in BHMG. Eats up gear all the way and changes from a layback crack to a nice hand crack halfway up the route. Jan 28, 2011
Phil Esra  
 
What Ryan said--i.e., you're going to get wrung out. Soft for Josh. A 3-star climb in a 4-star setting. Really tough to find. Jan 5, 2011
Ryan Kelly
work.
Ryan Kelly   work.
> Caught Inside - as in you can't get out to catch the set (of waves).

Slight correction - can't get out before you get dumped on by said set of waves. Usually at the point of getting caught inside catching a wave isn't the predominate issue on mind. Nov 19, 2010
Extremely fun! Felt a bit soft for the grade (But then again, I did this a long time ago) Sep 2, 2009
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The term for that would be "in the green room", Adam. Aug 28, 2009
I thought it was caught inside the tube of a big set... Aug 28, 2009
RTM
RTM  
Another one of lifes great mysteries...solved! Thanks Chris, Bartletts guide has it as Caught Outside. Aug 28, 2009
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Caught Inside - as in you can't get out to catch the set (of waves). Aug 28, 2009
RTM
RTM  
So, is it 'Caught Inside' or 'Caught Outside'?? Aug 26, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
we did the descent as described above, but instead of the gully (which we didnt know about), we rapped Book of Changes with a single 60m.

good fun, but be careful on the descent, that little boulder gully presents some interesting challenges! Oct 22, 2006
Here is a little fresh beta:

Gear for anchor on first pitch 1” to 4”.
Gear for anchor on second pitch 0.5” to 4”

I found the second pitch of the climb enjoyable - nice hand crack. The downclimb from the top of the first pitch looked very unappealing. 5.6? I think most parties will prefer to do both pitches and should be prepared to do so unless you don’t mind a 5.6 downclimb.

Descent: Take a look at the topo for D. Dome. There is a bolted anchor for one of the climbs on it that you may be able to get at. We did not see it, and the following is what we did. After you top out on the second pitch head left and look for a medium size tree near the edge with some slings on it. We cut off all the junk on it and replaced it with two red cordalettes in Dec 05. One rope rap. Once you are down, if you are facing the wall you rapped down, head right a bit. You will come to a gully choked with some giant boulders and you should be able to see the anchor bolts and slings for Book of Changes off to the left. I am told this is a one rope rap with a 60 meter rope. Alternatively, we went right and scrambled down a 4th class gully that had plenty of loose rock to make things interesting. Once u get past that u are home free. I think the descent sucks.
Jan 18, 2006