Type: Trad, 125 ft (38 m)
FA: Craig Fry & Dave Evans 2/85
Page Views: 3,488 total · 21/month
Shared By: Joe LeMay on Apr 21, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The longest route in the Grotto. Climb the slight overhanging corner using crack, stem, and chimney moves. There is always a 'small' placement possibility in the corner. It will take small nuts and TCUs. Use 2' slings on all placements and the rope drag will be acceptable higher up, otherwise you might be stopped.
You will be standing/stemming in body tension a few times. The crux is getting onto a left edge low on the route. It isn't over yet, and the route continues for a ways through two more overhang sections. The upper section is a sustained crack.
Belay in a small alcove.
To descend, face climb out of the alcove to the left past a pin and belay on a big platform. Rappel off long fixed slings toward the anchor for Book of Changes.

Protection

TCUs from 0, Cams to 3, Nuts from 3, 1" and 2" for anchor.

Photos