All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland South > Central Wonderland > Diarrhea Dome > Bighorn Mating Grotto
Avg: 3 from 6 votes
Routes in Bighorn Mating Grotto
|Caught Inside on a Big Set T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dangling Woo Li Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Euphrates T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Morning Thunder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Take Two, They're Small T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 125 ft|
|FA:||Craig Fry & Dave Evans 2/85|
|Page Views:||2,811 total, 22/month|
|Shared By:||Joe LeMay on Apr 21, 2007|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe longest route in the Grotto. Climb the slight overhanging corner using crack, stem, and chimney moves. There is always a 'small' placement possibility in the corner. It will take small nuts and TCUs. Use 2' slings on all placements and the rope drag will be acceptable higher up, otherwise you might be stopped.
You will be standing/stemming in body tension a few times. The crux is getting onto a left edge low on the route. It isn't over yet, and the route continues for a ways through two more overhang sections. The upper section is a sustained crack.
Belay in a small alcove.
To descend, face climb out of the alcove to the left past a pin and belay on a big platform. Rappel off long fixed slings toward the anchor for Book of Changes.