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> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
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> Central Wonderland
> Diarrhea Dome
> Bighorn Mating Grotto
Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 56
votes
Routes in Bighorn Mating Grotto
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Caught Inside on a Big Set T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dangling Woo Li Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Euphrates T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Morning Thunder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Take Two, They're Small T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.05146, -116.14733 |
| FA: | Craig Fry, Dave Evans, Charles Cole, Todd Gordon, Marge Floyd and Kelly Carignan, March 1985 |
| Page Views: | 4,519 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Beck on Dec 13, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Interesting face climbing (a traverse in from the right or a 10d direct start) lead to fun, varied climbing up cracks and a dihedral, with some slab moves thrown in. This is an excellent route with awesome moves. The direct start isn't too bad, go for it!
Recently a block pulled off the route (obvious triangular rock scar in the dihedral). It's not at a crux section and doesn't seem to have changed the route much, but there will a little dirt and cruft in that one spot for a while until it cleans up so use caution.
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