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Routes in Angel Food Wall

Beheaded Burro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleeting Boldness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Foolish Man, Foolish Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Healy's Haunted House T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Killin' Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lean Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Within T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy Hole T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tele-vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Betsy Herbst, Joanne and George Urioste, 1977
Page Views: 4,213 total · 33/month
Shared By: matt carpenter on Jan 1, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


This route is a blast and deserves more attention! Though the climbing is relatively easy it feels like a great adventure.

Pitch 1 - Start in the corner system 30' left of Tunnel Vision. Climb past the bulge and wander up and to the right on big holds. Pass old bail webbing and climb into the huge chimney. There is more old rappel webbing here; ignore that and build a gear anchor. (200')

Pitch 2 - The deep dark chimney. You will know you are on route and heading in the right direction once you hit the "Sandy Hole /Ledge". Head straight up from here; once level with the glowing light, make an easy traverse over and out passing a rusty bolt with a homemade hanger. Build a gear anchor near the exit of the chimney. Be mindful of rope drag. (120')

Pitch 3 - From here I climbed up and right clipping a bolt, eventually linking up with the "Tunnel Pitch" of Tunnel Vision. (90')

Pitch 4 & 5 - Follow Tunnel Vision to the top.

On pitch 3 the original line climbs up and left however I suggest linking with Tunnel Vision to continue the caving adventure.


30 feet left of Tunnel Vision


Doubles to BD #3, nuts
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
We got about halfway up this route the first time we visited Angel Food Wall. It took us about 3 pitches to figure out we were not on "Tunnel Vision!" What we did of it was fun. Jan 2, 2008
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
So maybe I've done this route. If so, it was great. Began left of TV, climbing an easy crack to a juggy roof. The crack/groove above narrowed until it squeezed shut under a dark chimney. Ascended into the darkness to a ledge, then traversed right towards some light. Exited a small hole with a bolted belay.

I think the route goes straight up from here but, for full value, we traversed right across a nice face to the base of the tunnel pitch on TV. Compared to the dark abyss on our route, the TV "tunnel" was light as day and a cake walk.

I thought this was one of the coolest routes I've done at Red Rock, and I've done a lot of climbing here. Way more interesting than clipping bolts up Levitation, in my mind. Plus, we were back to our car in about an hour. Fun stuff. Nov 24, 2008
marc g
San Francisco, CA
marc g   San Francisco, CA
This route looked fine for a starter at RR, but we had a late afternoon start and belayed off the first rap anchor, where we should have gone to the second rap anchor. After that, it was suddenly 3:30 when I was scrambling into this deep, poorly protected dark chimney filled with bat guano. It didn't look like anyone had been thru it, and I wondered if the route was out on the face to the right. The dark chimney was the proper route, but we decided it was crappy and we bailed, as our second group wasn't going to make it before dark. While just rapping from the 2nd rap station to the first 50 feet lower, rope got stuck and had to climb up to free it and then rap down again. Then, the team after us got their rope sucked while rapping down from the first rap anchor so they had to commit to coming back the next day to do the route again... and it made their whole next day suck. But, that's a story they can tell you. Thankfully, after 1.4 pitches of this turd, we did Tunnel Vision and were partially redeemed.

TL;DR, Sandy's Hole is a bat shit filled rope-eater. Nov 28, 2012
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
We climbed this route a few years ago and found it pretty damn fun for 5.6. Go up and through the squeeze chimney that is full of shit, but you stay right of the shit, top out where the chimney stops and head to the light to the right, the route heads to the left to the walk off, or you can head up and right the the Tunnel pitch of Tunnel Vision. This gives you 2 interesting Tunnels.

Prod. May 14, 2013
Lizzy Trower
Stanford, CA
Lizzy Trower   Stanford, CA
We recently climbed this route, having arrived at the base of the Angel Food Wall to find 3-4 parties on all the other routes. We read the minimal beta in the guidebook and set off for a "quick" climb so we could do one of the other routes.

It did not end up being quick, but it was a definitely a classic Red Rocks adventure. You will know you are on the right route when you head up the sandy hole in the dark chimney. We did not find there to be that much poop, although it had just stormed recently so maybe we got lucky. We pitched it out like this:

P1: climb into base of chimney, belayed above the 2nd tatty rap station. 200+ ft pitch (we had 70m ropes).
P2: tunnel through sandy hole in back of chimney, horizontal ledge traverse back out of chimney.
P3-4: wandery climbing on jugs diagonally up and left. I think we ended up finishing near the top of Tunnel Vision, although we could have escaped left on a ledge about half a pitch lower.
Walk off.

While this route isn't gonna make it into the SuperTopo any time soon, it was good quality fun and a great and fairly mellow adventure. Plus we didn't have to deal with the hoards on the other routes. It's totally worth doing once. Dec 2, 2013
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
+1 for steve and lizzys comments. for a 3 pitch 5.6 this did turn out to be quite an adventure. one of the most unique bits of climbing I've done crawling through that tunnel, way more intense but just as easy as tunnel vision. as steve says, easy to link over to the base of TV tunnel for a good day of vertical caving. great alternative when other routes are busy. don't be afraid, just keep heading up into that darkness! Mar 24, 2014
Jonathan Zamora
Henderson, NV
5.8- PG13
Jonathan Zamora   Henderson, NV
5.8- PG13
This seemed much more difficult than the grade suggests due to 2 overhangs and exposure which is impossible to safely protect. The top of of the first pitch has the first which is visible in the picture submitted. You must climb over the left overhanging edge to the ledge on top in order to find rappel slings wrapped around a chock rock deep and slightly high in a corner. Then easy climb till chimney where we had to negotiate around a huge pile of bat guano which was in the middle of the preferred (safer route). We then went up the squeeze chimney which was very tight for me due to my stocky build. Then the easy traverse was not that easy with someone with a fear of heights (like me). The exit was overhanging and with no visibility of the route above as there seemed to be a lot of exposure and minimal areas to place gear. What we could see of the wall seemed like the left wall (as you are looking out) had good hand and foot holds at first and turned slabby after 8 feet of climibing. We could only see 16 feet at most up the wall and it looked pretty vertical to us so we bailed as it was getting late. I had to leave a 9,10 and 11 stopper at the ceiling of the chimney w/ webbing and quick link for a rap anchor. I would definitely suggest that if you haven't climbed long(like myself) that you consider the rating to be STOUT! Oh and we got rope snagged in three different places on rappel. Two of which I was able to climb up but the final rappel had to leave rope and come back the next day to retrieve . Apr 13, 2015
We attempted this today. When we found it, we wondered why someone bailed 7 meters up a 5.6. About 30 minutes later we found out why and took advantage of the same bail nut.

Agree with a few above, this is STOUT - aka, this is not a 5.6. The squeeze is not only awkward, but lacks as well.

If you are on vacation and find yourself climbing Cookie Monster, Cat in the Hat, Great Red Book, Lotta Balls wall... avoid this route as a "fun" day. It's anything but. Obviously we cannot say we even began to climb the route - maybe it's a cakewalk after the first moves...

Perhaps we should have given the proper Tunnel Vision a go instead. Mar 16, 2016
Flava Flav
Kirkland, Washington
Flava Flav   Kirkland, Washington
I've done Sandy Hole 5-6 times, and the route has some interesting moves on it. Essentially it comes down to technique, like the beginning which requires stemming/chimney/smearing/mantle/layback in the first 20 ft. This is the crux, well protected with a #4 cam in the OW. I would say it's 5.7 and a little weird, but there's no way this route is 5.8. It's not a linear route like Birdland, it can be confusing and scary at times, but this does not change the climbing grade. The gear opportunities are sometimes creative, and the traverse at the top past the squeeze can be sewn up. Belay at seat/bolt on tcus. It's not a normal bolt, but I use it anyways. Crank up steep ground outside the hole and traverse right across ledges to find the bolts of Eigerwand, then right and up again to Tunnel Vision.

Bailing anywhere on that route is going to suck A LOT. Apr 27, 2016
Red Rock, NV
BigB   Red Rock, NV
we climbed this route on 3/12/17 after seeing the line for TV(get up early), anyways we think we left a C4 .4 at the first belay(actually it could be anywhere, we don't really know for sure other than its on the route somewhere). If you find it, and happen to read this, and feel like being really cool(buy you a beer or three?)and returning it...hmu Im a Vegas local and could pick it up from you anywhere in town. 702-266-6403 Mar 13, 2017
Ben Townsend  
Once you get over the whole “5.6” thing, this route is pretty cool. (Literally, too: we did it very comfortably on a 90-degree day.) Helpful to trail packs in the chimney. Above, trend further left than you think to arrive at the end of the Tunnel Vision cave pitch; the upper pitches of Eigerwand might make for a less crowded finish, but we didn’t explore this option. May 7, 2018

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