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Routes in Angel Food Wall

Beheaded Burro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleeting Boldness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Foolish Man, Foolish Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Healy's Haunted House T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Killin' Time T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lean Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
On the prowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Within T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy Hole T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tele-vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 770 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Herbst & Grandstaff '74
Page Views: 36,801 total, 222/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 12, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Tunnel Vision is one of the most fun, unique, moderate routes that Red Rocks has to offer. It climbs up the Angel Food Wall in 6 pitches. A lot of chimneys are encountered, and even a vertical spelunking pitch. Identify the start of Tunnel Vision by a crack which intersects a roof only 15' off the ground.

P1) 5.6 Climb the right facing corner for 15', then hand traverse at the roof right for a few feet until the main crack system is reached. Follow this crack system up, then through a chimney to the first belay. Make sure to watch out for rope drag around the opening corner.

P2) 5.4 Chimney up the wide easy chimney, belaying at a fixed anchor.

P3) 5.7 Another chimney pitch. This pitch is hard to protect, and is steeper and more narrow than the previous chimney. Stops at a huge ledge.

P4) 5.5 Continue up most of a rope length to another huge ledge.

P5) 5.3 Climb left into the vertical tunnel. This is a very interesting and unique pitch. However, the rock is quite slick, and pro is scarce until climbing out the other side of the tunnel. Finish with a short crack to another big ledge.

P6) 5.5 Climb the excellent handcrack in the left facing dihedral to the top of the climb.

Descent) The descent is an easy gully system that has an optional one rope rappel en route. This is to the left of the climb.

There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey

Protection

Standard Rack, some large pieces are helpful. The gear is plentiful except for the mostly unprotectable tunnel pitch.

Photos

walmongr
Gilbert AZ
  5.7 PG13
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
  5.7 PG13
not a very exciting route tunnel was kinda cool... Best part is to roshambo for the 3rd and watch your partner cry when he looses!!! Not sure why this is such a classic their is much better at this grade in R.R. Sep 23, 2017
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
My 2 cents:
P1, if you place gear even with long sling, before you do the traverse, your rope drag probably won't let you go past the big ledge. Which is actually fine, since that's about 2/3 way up.

I easily got to the bolts on end of P2 from there, with maybe 25m left on my 60m rope and it was pretty chill in difficulty.

P5 in the tunnel good luck, all the good holds are on the wall behind you. You can use a couple of tricams, but there will be a run out of at least 15-25 ft.

P6, the traverse is raelly right before the very last steep section. The traverse is I would say below 5.0 if it was on ground level... but the exposure... It does save you hiking down.

Bolts are still there at end of p2 as of 5/1/2017 May 2, 2017
So here are my two cents: on pitch two, I stopped at a slung boulder on the right but you should proceed up into the chimney another thirty feet and belay at a two bolt anchor inside the chimney. The slung boulder is below two chimneys: the left chimney is tunnel vision the right is not. Second, on the last pitch after the tunnel, you can go straight up to the top or about halfway up traverse left on easy ground and belay at a large boulder on a perch. The guide book offers both options. If you go left, then it is easy to access the gully behind the boulder by climbing up about 15 feet (no rope needed) and back into the gully for the descent. Apr 4, 2017
Kevin Downie  
 
We very much enjoyed this climb. There was 4 of us in a party, 2 climbed the pitch 3 chimney and 2 climbed the 5.8 bolted variation. I think the 5.8 bolted variation is the way to go, I am a wimpy 5.8 leader and I didn't think the run outs on this pitch were too bad. We did not move back into the chimney for pitch 4, instead we continued up on bolts and gear to the base of the tunnel. Feb 27, 2017
B. L.
 
B. L.  
 
Only made it up the 1st 3 pitches due to fading daylight - my partner didn't want to climb in the dark. In retrospect, our decision to bail was a bad one as it led to stuck rope :'( We made it to the ground though. Lesson learned - better to go up than down on this one.

1st pitch - the opening traverse is easy to protect if you are climbing with 2 ropes - just clip one before you traverse to the right, and only clip the other rope following that - you won't have a problem with rope drag then. If you have a big bro #4 you'll have an opportunity to use it on this pitch if you want - places very easily.

2nd pitch - was confused about the end as there was an anchor on a big ledge (webbing abound big boulder). I climbed on to find bolted anchors further up.

3rd pitch - scary and hard if you're new to 5.7 and/or chimneys. Definitely runout. You'll likely find yourself 20' or more above gear (multiple times) if you stay on the wide end. I used a big bro #4 to protect near the top. Was hard to place and I didn't have great faith in it - but it was better than nothing. My solid C4 #4 was too far below to make me feel good. Long sleeves and pants will lessen the hickies you might otherwise get from making out with the chimney. Sep 13, 2016
Sven Petersen
Henderson, NV
  5.7+ PG13
Sven Petersen   Henderson, NV
  5.7+ PG13
Did this on Aug 13, 2016. We were a bit short on water. Had 4L each and should have had 6L each. Got an early start. We knew it would be hot. The shadows and nice belay ledges were great. All the pitches went as expected, except P3.

Don't underestimate the run out on P3. I moved onto the face from the OW when it got tight. The rail inside the left wall of the crack saved me. We had placed a #6 BD cam and I was 20ft above that. Could have used another, or a big bro. Had I read all the beta I'd have opted for the face variation. We placed the #6 about 4 times over the course of the climb and did not think we were over protected. P5 was fun and felt cool.

Lots of places for large pro. Especially on P6. Several places for smaller aliens which was nice. Trailed my pack with a cordelette and hook which was very nice in the chimneys.

We had double BD cams 1-4
Single BD cams 5,6
Single Alien .33,3/8, 1/2, 3/4 but only used the 2 smallest
few small nuts. the Offsets worked nice.
Gobs of runners. Aug 14, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.6
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.6
The tunnel pitch is what makes this climb worth doing. All the climbing before and after is not memorable. Wouldn't suggest doing this route if there is a line ahead of you as you will be doing more waiting at belay stations than the climbing is worth. May 28, 2016
Arch Richardson  
  5.7
Classic! The initial traverse was the crux (for us). Wide pitches felt secure, didn't try to spit you out anywhere, and they had pro. Enjoy!! May 5, 2016
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
I read all the comments here and kind of poo-pooed all the comments about the third pitch. Don't.

It's possible I didn't find all the gear, but midway through that pitch is a section of OW where you're making a series(maybe ten or fifteen feet?) of 5.7 moves with no rests a good 20 feet above your last piece. There's a nice rail on the left side of the crack, and the temptation to lieback/shimmy up that for its duration was much stronger than my desire to get in the crack and chikenwing/grovel through that section, so maybe that would have been more secure, but it was stout for 5.7.

Probably not a great lead for folks who aren't pretty cozy leading 5.8 trad with sparse gear.

Forget the haters commenting here. You'd have to be some kind of rock snob to not get a kick out of the varied, featured, fun climbing on pretty much every pitch of this route. Apr 25, 2016
Climb To Safety
california
 
Climb To Safety   california
 
You climb through a tunnel, what else is there to say? Feb 29, 2016
Micah's beta for the bolted face variation is spot on. Plenty of bolts, just spaced out and hard to see. I thought this variation was great, and since no one else seems to like the standard P3, I highly recommend this variation. Just keep looking left when in doubt. Definitely a good alternative. Feb 14, 2016
If you like chimneys, you'll love this route. If you don't like chimneys, well, you'll get a lot better at chimneys. Definitely some fun sections, but also some stuff you just have to make it through.

P1: Pretty fun but uneventful once you get past the first roof section right at the start.

P2: Really short pitch, so we linked pitch 2 and 3 with a 60m rope, however I wouldn't recommend this. My partner had to simul climb a bit as the rope ran out on P3, but the start of P2 was very easy luckily. You might be able to link pitch 1 and 2 instead, but rope drag could become a problem, especially if your first piece of P1 gear is placed immediately left before traversing right and up around the roof.

P3: 5.7 Crux, most definitely R if you do the chimney. Really heady, I freaked out a bit during this lead, but eventually pulled it together and finished the pitch. I had to hang my camel back below me on the chimney sections. A previous comment recommended bringing up a #4 cam and using it to protect this section, sliding the cam up as you climb (you'd have to be pretty deep into the chimney in order for this to be effective). I thought I was doing this, but I wasn't. I was on the first chimney earlier in the pitch. So do yourself a favor and do not be tempted to place this piece too early. You will know it when you need it, because there simply won't be any other options for protection. I did eventually fit a micro cam in a small crack on the left side of the chimney, which gave me the confidence to continue, even if it may not have been the best placement in the world. The next belay spot is huge and is a great spot to take a break.

P4: Hardest part was getting into the crack, and then the rest of the pitch was pretty easy and enjoyable.

P5: We had a little trouble figuring out where to start once in the tunnel. Once inside the tunnel, about 20 feet to the left, you'll likely see a hold with a bunch of chalk on it which is where you want to start. Don't make the mistake of trying to go all the way left inside the tunnel, it's way too cramped. You should go straight up from the first hold and stay more or less on the right side of the rock feature for a while, and be sure to use the rear side of the tunnel to your advantage with some more chimney moves. Eventually there will be a narrow ledge where you can make your way left and out of the tunnel. Up a bit more to a medium sized belay ledge.

P6: At the beginning of this pitch, getting into the hand crack on the right side was moderately difficult. I followed the hand crack up as others had indicated, and expected it to continue all the way to the top, but it does not. It ends at a large face feature which is climbable. I guess this is when I was supposed to go veer left, but I continued straight up the face, which is very doable, with some halfway decent holds, but little opportunity for protection. If you do go straight up the face, it will be pretty clear once you've gotten to the top, it will be flat with a few big boulders ahead. Also, be aware, if you go straight up, it will be almost impossible to hear your climbing partner(s) from the belay. This led to some unnecessary stress of both sides not knowing what was going on for quite some time. If you do the straight up option like we did, you'll have to scramble over the big boulders and up a small ravine to the left, and then up and over the left wall to get to the main gully. On the way down, make sure you follow the cairns, don't make your own way. There was one rappel that we had to do, for which there were slings and rap rings. A 60m rope was the exact length of the rappel. Feb 7, 2016
eli poss
Durango, Co
 
eli poss   Durango, Co
 
Don't be intimidated by the large amount of chimneying involved on this route. I did a lot of the chimneying I've only ever done 2 or 3 pitches of chimney so my technique probably isn't up to par. Despite my shitty technique, the chimneys were pretty mellow minus a short grunty squeeze section on the tunnel pitch. It's not difficult, but do bring a good head game for some slight runnouts.

I highly recommend the bolted variation for P3 and P4. From the top of P2, clip a bolt almost right off the belay, and trend left up the face, using the crack or slinging knobs for pro between the protection bolts. Kinda thin in some sections but fairly easy by slab standards and very fun knobby face. At the top of the P3 variation, there is a two bolt anchor to belay from a smallish ledge and the next pitch has 2 protection bolts and gear all the way up to the start of the tunnel pitch, P5. We belayed from a stance behind a boulder on the ledge, backed up by a slung knob. For the tunnel pitch, I used minimal pro, mostly for the follower, and belayed at a ledge with a split in it where I jammed my leg in for a stance, backed up by a green totem cam. I believe this belay was a bit higher than the normal belay for P5 but it allowed me to go all the way to the summit for P6 instead of ending early by traversing at the ledge below the roof.

P6 was the money pitch, and if you're comfy on runnout 5.7ish slab/knobby face then go all the way to the summit and belay at the boulders. Running it out on a slabby face at the top of P6, 25+ feet above a yellow WC zero was a very fun, memorable experience and I highly recommend it to any comfortable 5.8 trad leader, especially if you enjoy slab. For those nervous, though, you can reduce the runnout by sling a knob or two on the face, but IMO doing so interrupts some amazing face climbing. Besides, cool cats run it out.

I highly recommend doing the route this way for full value, but remember to bring a good amount of runners for slinging knobs. We brought a single set of cams from 0 TCU size to #3 camalot but would probably bring a #4 if doing the awful-width P3. This more than enough pro, and I may even replace the #3 with a large hex if doing it again. Nov 29, 2015
JohnPaulO
Cedar Park, TX
 
JohnPaulO   Cedar Park, TX
 
I think I accidentally left a pink tricam and 24" runner at the top of the last pitch, the part that traverses left.

Enjoy the booty, put it to good use! Nov 27, 2015
Rhoda
Boston, MA
 
Rhoda   Boston, MA
 
lots of shade = lots of crowds. i think there were maybe 5 parties on this route the day we went up it (end of april). May 11, 2015
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
  5.7+ PG13
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
  5.7+ PG13
This route has more sustained climbing than Group Therapy but in general it is better protected. I agree the starting moves are harder than 5.7 and probably the hardest section on the whole route. The tunnel pitch is unique and the last pitch is pure joy, especially after all the squeezes below - a welcome relief! Apr 22, 2015
hazmat
San Luis Obispo
 
hazmat   San Luis Obispo
 
Lost Cam. Climbed this on Wens. 4-9-15 and think my Purple .5 C4 got left behind on pitch 1 or maybe later, but before the tunnel. If anyone finds it I will gladly pay shipping and a bit extra for the hassle of returning it. Apr 13, 2015
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
5.8 bolted face beta: . From the 2 bolt anchor at the end of pitch two, climb directly above anchor to the first bolt , which is hard to see from down in the chimney. Follow a shallow right facing corner that takes good (small) gear. Near the top of corner, keep looking left over the bulge, where you will discover another bolt ,(also not real easy to spot) which leads up to the left to more bolts and a few gear placements. Excellent pitch, with plenty of exposure and a bit spicy in places. Belay at an obvious two bolt anchor. Pitch 2 clips 2 or 3 bolts then follows the crack , which leads to the base of the tunnel pitch. i'd call both pitches soft 5.8. Apr 9, 2015
rileyfriesen
North Hollywood
rileyfriesen   North Hollywood
I've climbed this route a couple times, I think it's really fun and interesting. I want to comment about the variation on the 3rd pitch crux. The "bolted" 5.8 face as one bolt, but plenty of spots for pro. I highly recommend moving out on to the face there, however, I'm not a fan of off-width chimneys. I find it far easier than climbing basically the whole pitch without pro. Also the direct finish isn't that hard, has lots of pro and I also find preferable. My 2 cents!! Apr 6, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.7 R
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.7 R
This climb didn't live up to the hype for me. There are some good pitches interspersed with a lot of mediocre climbing. The 2nd pitch is good and of course the tunnel through pitch is classic, but there is definitely better to be had in Red Rocks at the grade. 3 stars for the good pitches I mention and 1 star for everything else. Jan 29, 2015
dwsnider
Tempe
 
dwsnider   Tempe
 
Found a GoPro (New Model) on the climb this last weekend.

It has a special identifier on it. Message me the details on what you lost and I can get it back to you!

-Dakota

dwsnider@asu.edu Dec 16, 2014
Barrett Stetson
  5.7+ PG13
Barrett Stetson  
  5.7+ PG13
Climbed this mainly because the tunnel pitch sounded unique, even though I kind of hate chimneys, so it was my own fault, but wasn't really into this climb. Found the first pitch hand traverse less secure than I was hoping since I didn't put in any gear to avoid drag. Pitch 2 not bad. Pitch 3 sucked. Not sure if I got sucked too far in, but I got into a spot midway up that didn't have very secure feet and was too tight to really smear, and no gear in. Wish I had tried the bolted 5.8 variation. Pitch 4 easy. Pitch 5 was actually kind of cool, and didn't find moves very hard, just chimney and stem off back, take it slow and think your moves through. One piece of gear until you reach corner exiting tunnel. Pitch 6 was ok too. Built intermediate anchor after coming up to standing position after going through roof so second could hear me, otherwise would have been impossible. Then a short jaunt up face going around left side to get to gully. Long way down gully and I thought some of the down climbing was not trivial and wasn't quite expecting that. Wouldn't bring seconds on this who aren't fairly comfortable with some technical down climbing.

ps - dropped little gray 00 mastercam down into crack maybe 10' from entrance to tunnel pitch, maybe 8' down. Just sitting there. Probably could fish out with fishing line and weighted hook or something without too much work if anyone is interested. Oct 24, 2014
Ryan Stefani  
 
I love this climb. After we got on route and found the two bolt anchor at the top of P2, I got P3. There was one bolt on the fact and the rest was gear. I didn't notice any old chopped bolts either. I'm curious where the bolts were.

P3 was stellar. P4 was okay, but P5 and 6 were great. P5 was just fun and different an cool. P6 was a wonderful moderate, steep corner to a wonderful and easy roof. We went all the way to the back corner on 5.0 an 4th class terrain and just walked down with only about 10' of down climbing total.

If you looking for something different than the crimp, high-step, crimp, high-step nature of many of the climbs, this one is it!

Note: be sure to head left in the tunnel pitch up the ramp towards the window! Oct 17, 2014
Likeasummerthursday
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Agree that this route is not really something to write home about.

That said, we got bees on second and third belays.
Pitch one hand traverse is easy but poorly protected.
Singles to #4. Handren's " optional big piece" would be appreciated on p3, but I wouldn't bring it.
Carrying/hauling pack is no fun.
Rock is high quality, and if you dig moderate chimneys, this is the route!
Leader used headlamp in the tunnel and found it helpful, but he only placed one piece anyway.

Descent: follow the cairns! It is well marked. We saw one rapell anchor. We didn't use it. Squeeze the slot next to it. Very easy. Sep 30, 2014
gavinsmith
Toronto, Ontario
5.7
gavinsmith   Toronto, Ontario
5.7
I managed to go the wrong way in the tunnel. I recalled 'go towards the light' briefly and went for the first light I saw, which was up, without thinking. Nope. Left and straight, horizontal. My second had fun tracing my steps to get the couple very high pieces I'd put in the back wall.

We did get stuck behind a slow party of 3 at the bottom of the 3rd pitch. Went around to the right, it was a pleasant variation to the entrance of the tunnel. Sep 3, 2014
jacobleowook
Las Vegas
 
jacobleowook   Las Vegas
 
A local climber informed us that there were no more bees. We unfortunately came to find out that he was just lucky enough not to have seen them. After the tunnel pitch we were followed by 2 small swarms of aggressive bees. Literally the bees were flying in our pants, shoes, and landing on us. Unless you like added adrenaline by being stung I would skip this route. Luckily we had tweezers in our pack to pull out the stinger. Aug 3, 2014
G. Vesp
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7+ PG13
G. Vesp   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7+ PG13
Great route with some definite spice! I consider myself a 5.7ish trade leader and didn't find any of the climbing above my comfort zone, but definitely thought IMHO that there were some areas that you need to feel comfortable well above your gear. On the 3rd pitch chimney/ off-width, I wandered out left and clipped one face bolt and placed gear in a short vertical crack. Ultimately I wandered back right into the off-width to finish the pitch although there was an additional face bolt that looked like it would allow you to continue straight up the face. The tunnel pitch I thought was awesome and much less committing than what I thought it would be. If you use the outside wall as well, it is extremely secure. I placed my first piece of gear after I exited the tunnel and at no point did I ever feel insecure with the moves. Overall it was an excellent route with added adventure because of the run-out overall nature of the route. Enjoy and be safe!!! May 1, 2014
^^^Been there, done that. My first time on the route, I pebble wrestled above 00 TCUs and other thinness, broke off a bunch of the moki marbles as I went (not stressful, I always hyperventilate like that) and topped out direct. Fun, once it's over. After passing the roof you hang a left, it's easy to miss. Apr 25, 2014
On Pitch 6, we anchored just below a final roof section (after the crack pitch exiting the tunnel). From here, I pulled through the roof and wandered up and right up the blank looking face. I thought this was the "Steep finish" pointed out by Handren (P6). I found myself on a steep face with a headwall about 30-40ft up. A few smaller pieces of gear could be placed early on but that was it for a while. Eventually, I passed the steeper "headwall" by traversing and finding some intricate holds up and right. This resulted in a top out at some large boulders . I found this variation "interesting" on lead. A guide and his client, followed me and my partner shortly after and agreed with the interesting part. Has anyone else made a similar modification to the normal route and I am wondering an approximate grade? I'm not sure I would intentionally lead this again, but it made for a fairly wild ending to an already awesome route. Apr 25, 2014
Michael Douglas
Yucaipa, CA
Michael Douglas   Yucaipa, CA
Did the face variation. Super fun, well protected mixed (mostly bolted) - so may bolts that I found myself skipping bolts and pulling carabineers off my cams. I hate chimney and it was a GREAT alternative (4 stars); also made things fast. Started climbing around 9am back to the car by 1pm. Mar 19, 2014
Mike Harris DFW
DFW, Texas
Mike Harris DFW   DFW, Texas
Climbed with 3 others and we all agree that the opening hand traverse is way, way harder than 5.7 and PG+++. The pro, a nut placement that would hold a fall, will lead to a pendulum back into the wall and not protecting to avoid rope drag will lead to a serious deck. I just don't get it. That said, the rest of the route was fun. The 3rd pitch crux went a lot better out on the face.

Descended in the dark and were very grateful that cairns amundo marked the way. Oct 3, 2013
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
Excellent Summer climb! Had the entire wall to ourselves this Tuesday. Cracks and chimneys provide natural air conditioning.. Started route about 8:30 and in the shade almost entirety of day, including excellent descent trail. Only bad part was hike to car at 2:30 pm with temp over 100.

Pitch 3 squeeze is fabulous! Give it a 7 plus pg13 though due to sparse gear and technical footwork! A green big bro was nice for the crux.

Great day! Jun 6, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.7
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.7
A few things:

1. The bolts are still there.

2. The approach and descent are EXCEEDINGLY well-cairned.

3. It was in the low 90's today in town and it was very comfortable climbing in the shade. If I weren't rope soloing and thus constantly moving I may have even been kinda cool at belays with the breeze that the upper portion of the route receives.

4. Had the place to myself. Didn't suck, but was kinda unnerving rope soloin' a long route for the first time.

5. The tunnel does not require a headlamp. Just solid chimney technique.

That being said, I wasn't particularly impressed with the route with the exception of the tunnel pitch. Beyond that it was lackluster, and I like the wide stuff.

Weston May 12, 2013
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Really wish we could have finished this route, but had to bail from halfway up the second pitch due to rain. Led P1, which had a pretty attention-getting start. May 11, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Please dont create rap stations on the descent for this route- they are not needed. There is a short 3rd class section- it looks like it wont go at first- but if you follow the cairns and keep moving downward, it works out well. May 6, 2013
austin ely
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
austin ely   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
Climbed this on Saturday, left a shiny new sling and quicklink on the juniper tree.

Super fun route; may have made the tunnel harder than it needed to be by climbing up about 20 feet from the final traverse ledge into the 1-2 foot squeeze before traversing. I'm not super experienced with chimneys but it felt about 5.8 and scary with the runout. Exhilarating, and it made that hand crack feel oh so sweet at the end. May 6, 2013
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
got on this to enjoy the wide P3. belayed at a more comfortable ledge about 15 ft below the P2 anchor bolts. didn't find the P3 initial section "smooth" like books or some said. nice sequence of features to keep going up on, not abundant but just enough. brought two #4's but ended up not needing to stretch into main crack to place them. adequate pro up to one blue Camalot within arm's length just left of crack for the upper half of that wide stretch. fun roof at start of P4 too, adventurous P5 tunneling, and wild P6 roof just before topout. many stretches of happy jugs throughout, thought all pitches fun. went with two 28 oz water bottles to not have a pack, one clipped to each side, just enough for route (shaded from morning sun by dihedrals much of way) and sunny walkoff on a hot day May 4, 2013
Aawait
  5.7
Aawait  
  5.7
On the crux pitch 3 with the words "climb onto the face" ringing in my head I climbed up the face to the (climbers) right of the crux chimney. I pulled a 5.9ish move to a good hold, placed a red alien backed up by a small nut, then followed flakes and crimps in a traverse further over onto the exposed face of the wall between P3 and stilgar's wild ride. Some adrenaline and the presence of fairly decent holds kept me traversing out onto the face where I encountered a large loose block which was the first indication to myself that I may have been off route. I managed to find a blue alien placement in a horizontal. Then following decent holds up the slabby face I found a green(or yellow) alien placement in a hollow flake. I then ran it out to the top of the pillar and hit a large ledge. Some easy traversing back (climbers) left got me to the regular belay ledge above pitch 3.

I do not think this was the variation discussed in the comments above as there were no bolts and the comments above describe climbing to the left of the crux chimney pitch (p3). Anyone else climb right like I did? Traversing out onto the face was exposed and fun and there was some gear.. Mar 31, 2013
marc g
San Francisco, CA
  5.7 PG13
marc g   San Francisco, CA
  5.7 PG13
Tunnel vision probably cured my affinity for chimneys. I like them enough, and I was pretty happy about stemming thru the narrow stuff on the 1st and 2nd pitch. Even when I had to set up below the bolts on the 2nd belay station and build an anchor an a narrow chimney that barely fit me, nevermind my partner. No, the thing that cured me was that long slog up the chimney on the 3rd pitch with the 'grunty' face transition. I had hung my backpack off my harness with a sling, and I was just tired of having to deal with that trying to sabotage my legs. On pitch 5, after the tunnel, we didn't belay immediately outside the tunnel as some guides suggest. The belay 50 ft up worked fine.

The tunnel was pretty cool, especially when we topped out and my friends that were climbing Sandy Hole (starting to the left of us) were below, on the ledge to the right of us.

Also, we had 3 different topos, and they were totally different in regards to belays and ratings. The most accurate diagram was probably Supertopo.
Nov 29, 2012
Justin.Trayford
  5.7 PG13
Justin.Trayford  
  5.7 PG13
I did this not to long ago with a buddy of mine. We did the bolted variation at the start to get around a large (slow)party. The bolted start was fun. A lot of big moves to big jugs.

Pitch 2 was a fun easy chimney with more pro then you know what to do with.

Pitch 3 sucked!(IMHO) I was so happy I was leading the even pitches after getting thru that mess. It's a hard to protect off-width climb. This is a 5.7+ "R" pitch. Stay calm and keep your head straight (the climbing isn't "hard" it's very heady and the lack of good pro adds to the head game)..you'll get thru it and be rewarded by a large ledge to rest on (we ate lunch and took in the views).

Pitch 4 Pull the easy roof with jugs. After that it's like climbing a ladder. Don't get fooled by the "small" cave ledge you'll see. Just keep going up. The top of this pitch is the gigantic tunnel ledge.

Pitch 5 starts on that epic ledge I mentioned. Don't drop anything you'll never be able to retrieve it! You will see all sorts of dropped gear just out of reach. If you are adventurouse and are looking for lost booty you can cash in here with prior planning. Anyways the tunnel I'm 5'10 200lbs of fatty so the tunnel wasn't scary. Just think like a puffer if you slip! Don't let the lack of protection intimidate you! The climbing is easy and secure (my opinion.) Make sure you face the many and abundent holds while going up this section. It's all in the way you face!

Pitch 6 is a nice crack. We went up to the traverse ledge (you will see the ledge to climbers left), built an anchor (below the hard looking part...you'll see), and the belay man cleaned and shot out around the ledge. This keeps rope drag down especially walking out and around the ledge. It's got some nice exposure walking around the ledge.

Descent: If you came this far might as well just walk out. No need to rap! The gully walk is well marked with cairns. It is steep at first and has a couple 4th class moves. You will see the wash below and above the wash is an old road which will take you back to the parking area.

Car to car 5 hours. Keep in mind we were slowed by a party ahead of us and did lunch on the top of P3 and tried to recover dropped gear on the top of P4. Jun 14, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Please do NOT pass your ropes around trees to rappel- its very bad for the tree and your rope.

In this particular case, given that the rappel avoids a 20' section of 3rd class, its not even necessary to rappel.

If you must rap, sacrifice a sling. Thanks. Jun 14, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.7 PG13
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.7 PG13
Do the chimney on pitch 3. Adds a lot of spice. I bumped my #4 cam up for about the first 40 feet, and then left it and did a couple face moves around the very vertical offwidth. After I got a nut and a cam placed on the face around the vertical offwidth, I reached back and grabbed my #4 cam out of the crack and took it up. My partner thanked me. There is a variation where you can climb the face out left on bolts, but it's a trad route! The face moves were reachy in the offwidth section. But they protected nicely. I really ran out the pitches I led, but felt pretty secure. This would be very heady for someone at their limit, so I rated the route PG-13. Mostly because of the third pitch. I placed 3 pieces in the tunnel on the back wall in pockets, as others have described. But 3 pieces in 80 feet is pretty run out for most people. Agreed that a headlamp is not necessary, but helped me find the pockets and make sure the gear was placed well. Inside the tunnel, head towards the back of the tunnel and stem off of the wall opposing the face. Not marked very well by chalk.

Pitches 1, 2, 3, and 5 all included chimney moves of some sort, so get ready for chimneying. Not difficult chimney moves, but chimney nonetheless. Packs may get in the way a bit, especially when the chimney gets tighter, but we both wore packs and were glad to have the water. Pitch 4 is an absolute joy. Big jugs and a great protectable crack the whole way up to the cave entrance.

Bees followed us up the entire route! Even in the cave! My partner got stung at the bottom of the route. So annoying.

Note on the single rope rap: we descended as per the cairns for about 100 yards. The trail leads to the right across a couple ledges. Where the trail appears to go down steeply (would require some pretty serious downclimbing), there is a good sized juniper tree. We passed the rope around the tree and used it as a rap station. There aren't any bolts to rap off of, or even a sling around the tree, but you can see the rope marks around the tree where others have done the same thing.

Route was mostly in the shade all day and pleasant to climb, even in early June with ambient temperatures near 100.

Took full rack of Metolius master cams, full rack of BD camalots to #4, a full set of nuts, and 12 slings. Was glad to have the pro options. I did pitch 1 in two sections to avoid rope drag. There is a rock with a bunch of slings around it at the top of pitch 1, pitch 2 has a bolted belay, pitch 3 had a rock with ropes slung around it I used for the belay, pitch 4 was a gear anchor, pitch 5 was a gear anchor, and pitch 6 was a gear anchor. I really don't understand when you look at the topo for the route and see a 150 foot pitch requiring a gear anchor, and the guide book recommends a single rack... Jun 11, 2012
it was fun,amazing ,awesome,committing,scary,sketchy,but had the time of my life,was alo my 1st multi-pitch,ended up not getting down till dark and couldnt find my partners pack and had car keys in it and walked 7 miles to the visitors center and had to sleep in the bathroom but my partner and me were in such good spirits that we laughed off and on through out the night. Mar 25, 2012
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Alternate 5.9 start to the right is well worth while. Fun moves. Feb 26, 2012
RAZORsharp
Carlsbad CA
 
RAZORsharp   Carlsbad CA
 
I thought this was a great climb, a real, by any means necessary movement through some steller looking sandstone. I led pitches 1-3, linking 2 and 3. I would not recommend this, as there was severe rope drag, making the crux off-width very heady. Marginal gear in the crux, but the climbing is solid, mostly. I was luckily on a 70m rope, or else i would've been short roped moving out of the crux chimney onto thin, albeit good hold on the face. Some good smaller cams/ nuts work well in the pocketed face. I DEFINITELY made it an R, facing a 30ft+ run out through the crux until I was able to place an old style BD 4. you can place that size more than once on the crux pitch.I thought the cave pitch was awesome, although I dont think climbing it with a heavy pack was a good idea...

Descent is awesome, providing an incredible view the whole way down. look for cairns before committing to any descent, as some trails lead you to a quick drop. Id recommend gloves, and some warm gear as the belays are always in the shade, and get very cold. Dont forget your headlamp, as parties above make for an almost guaranteed epic. Started at 1030am, was back at the car at 830 pm.... Feb 21, 2012
Classic every time. Funky, old school, varied, R rated for sure, though fairly easy and doable for solid 5.8 leaders. A good adventure. Aug 21, 2011
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.7+ PG13
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.7+ PG13
It isn't necessarily the most aesthetic line or movement, but I thought it was a fun route, worth doing for the novelty of the chimney pitch alone.

Make sure you sing the theme song from Mario during the tunnel pitch--it helps you send. May 25, 2011
the Tunnel pitch is much harder than 5.3 to me I am 6 feet felt sustained 5.7+ happily I was following. Surprised to hear anybody getting pro, though I didn't really look myself. Apr 22, 2011
Mike M
Sandia Park, NM
  5.7+ R
Mike M   Sandia Park, NM
  5.7+ R
#3.5 camalot and #4 C4 provides a handy overlap on almost every pitch.

Pink and red tricam was a great suggestion! There's only one place they'll fit that I found, and it was a perfect equalized pair with two shoulder slings. I also managed to stick an orange metolius TCU in the back wall a few moves up from the tricams, which made the follower more confident, but had she slipped I bet the pendulum would've ripped it from the soft flare.

The stemming at the end of the tunnel had me sketched, and I opted to go diagonally upward about 15' to obtain the crack - BAD choice, as this final chimney was very difficult.

Don't let the comments, above, sandbag you. The rating is legit, and the P3 chimney climbing is thin and difficult. Guidebooks seem to imply that the hand traverse on P1 is the crux, but I honestly didn't have much trouble there. Make sure leader and follower are both solid chimney climbers for this one. Apr 20, 2011
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Bring a pink and red tri-cam for the tunnel pitch.
After exiting the tunnel, if you're comfortable doing so, consider climbing a bit up the corner before placing gear. This will minimize any swing into the corner if your second comes off in the tunnel. Apr 5, 2011
Joe Cayer
Mesa, Az
  5.7 PG13
Joe Cayer   Mesa, Az
  5.7 PG13
Just climbed this one on Friday. Have to say that I was disappointed. I'd heard mixed reviews about it but wanted to climb just the same. I wouldn't go on this one again, interesting climb but nothing particularly great about it. May 17, 2010
Drederek
  5.7
Drederek  
  5.7
Black Dagger was way better, this one didn't live up to the hype. May 3, 2010
Justin York
Phoenix, AZ
 
Justin York   Phoenix, AZ
 
I highly recommend the following linkup!

Did the first pitch of tunnel vision, just to find a long line at the top of the pitch. Decided to do the next few pitches of Stilgards Wild Ride (5.8) which meets up w/tunnel vision belay at the base of the "tunnel" pitch, and then finished on tunnel vision. This combo makes for a bunch of great pitches - three stars for sure!

And the "tunnel" pitch really wasn't that great, IMHO. Mar 19, 2010
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
As of October, 09, the hangers are back on at the bolted anchor atop P2. The variation to P.3, which clips a bolt just above the bolted belay and then heads a few feet left to a shallow right facing corner/crack, is excellent, soft for 5.8, and well-protected all the way to back into the chimney. You will have to run out the last 15 feet or so of the chimney, but the rail on the left edge of the chimney offers amazing holds and the stemming is easy. In the tunnel, DO NOT go up past the chockstone that is visible straight up--go up twenty five feet or so, then head almost horizontally left along a ramp to reach the "window" mentioned in the guides. What a fun little route. Oct 31, 2009
Tyson Anderson
SLC, UT
  5.7 R
Tyson Anderson   SLC, UT
  5.7 R
Really fun route. The last two pitches are the best in my opinion and the third pitch just sucks. I was able to place one micro-nut in the tunnel but I didn't look really hard for other placements. The tunnel isn't as scary as some have said, it's just really fun unusual climbing. Sep 20, 2009
Tim Anders
Las Vegas
 
Tim Anders   Las Vegas
 
I agree, not worthy of the stars. Purblind Pillar is way more fun. Jun 17, 2009
Jay Holland
Heath , Texas
Jay Holland   Heath , Texas
Great Route, but respect the lack of areas for pro. The third pitch can be pretty run out and though it is only 5.7 a slip caused quite a painful fall. May want to look at the variation for this pitch. Not sure what the variation is rated but it does have a few bolts for pro(ewww) but safe. Great views! Mar 31, 2009
Erik in CO
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Erik in CO   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Pitch 1: Somewhat scary starting traverse with fall to ground if you miss-step. Protection is slightly sparse this pitch.
Pitch 2: Fun pitch, not very long though. Bolts at belay station are present but not strictly necessary as there was a crack in which an anchor could be built. We lost a good bit of time with some poor rope management here.
Pitch 3: Did the face climb variant. Face bolt was helpful, protection was good until crux, at which point I found it a bit lacking.
Pitch 4: Fun. Don't know if there was many opportunities for placements after going around the roof. I just dealt with the runout on very easy climbing.
Pitch 5: Also fun. Placements somewhat sparse but adequate (esp as getting here means you are comfortable leading in the 5.7+ range). I climbed up about 20 feet and found two stopper placements, traversed left and found a small cam placement in the back wall, had a placement at the lodged rock, and then continued a traverse left out of the tunnel. Last few feet of traverse were a bit tricky and had no protection, but handholds exist on the back wall. Remainder was easy climbing.
Pitch 6: Climbed the crack to the roof then traversed left, as we were short on time and tired. Fun climbing with plenty of protection.

Overall a fun rout, esp. from pitch 4 on. The descent took a lot longer than I was expecting. Plan for about an hour and a half. We did it with no rappel. Mar 19, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Did this with the face variations for the 1st and 4th? pitches. Brock topo is inaccurate at best, and the thing seems to have sprouted some extra belays. 1st pitch variation is about 60' with 4 bolts, not the 160' Brock gives it. Don't miss the tunnel pitch if doing the variations, at a point after passing the second bolted anchor on the upper variation, about 20' below an obvious wide crack (~6"), traverse right around a sandy blunt/rounded corner to belay on the ledge below the tunnel. Definitely recommend the variations. You can link the tunnel pitch and last pitch with a 70m (may need to simul a few feet). Nov 25, 2008
Ron Graham
  5.7 PG13
Ron Graham  
  5.7 PG13
Tall people need not be very concerned about the relative lack of pro in the 5th pitch; the ceiling contains numerous shelves and big pockets that make it very easy to keep your feet at 90 degrees to the slick rock face as you stem up it. For shorter people who can't stem the route as well, we found 3 good placements: 1.) a small parallel crack about 15 feet up that will take a BD microcam or a ball nut, 2.) a larger pocket on the ceiling another 15 feet up that will take a small cam, and 3.) a pocket on the right side of the bulge on the face just after which you reach the shelf that traverses out of the tunnel.

The face alternative for pitch 3 has cracks and pockets that can be sewn up with pro. It also has relatively good holds on it but you must traverse back into the chimney at the top (hardest moves for this variation.) I did a layback to get up and over the top, but my partners found there are parallel cracks that let you hug the pillar as you ascend near the top of the chimney.

I give this a PG-13 rating because of the spicy start. You need to use your feet well there but it can be hard to see all the delicate footplacements if you're wearing an over-the-shoulder sling of pro. However, the parallel crack at the top goes from sloper where there are good foot placements to bomber edge where the feet get thin. If you lose foot traction on the face at that point you can pick it up quickly my moving your feet around the corner into the groove. Since it's a little blind, this could be the hardest move on the route. Nov 24, 2008
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
 
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
 
A headlamp for the tunnel is quite silly, not dark enough in there for it to really make a difference. Nov 22, 2008
George Wilson
Las Vegas
 
George Wilson   Las Vegas
 
If anyone is missing Chewbacca I found him...Heady 3rd pitch! I'm not kidding about Chewbacca, I really found him! Oct 21, 2008
In March 2008, the pitch 2 anchor bolts were still present. This is a semi-hanging belay and good rope management (e.g. lap coiling) here is important, as the crack below this station eats ropes. I spent a good amount of time freeing up the stuck rope of the party above me. There were cut-off pieces of other ropes stuck in the same spot.

In the tunnel, there are a few good tricam placements in pockets in the back wall. Apr 14, 2008
jblackattack blac
las vegas, nv
  5.7
jblackattack blac   las vegas, nv
  5.7
I heard a lot about this climb before hand but unfortunately it did not live up to its praise for me. I would barley give this climb 1.5 stars. There are much better climbs on this wall. Sep 9, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
For those interested, the bolts are back on the top of the 2nd pitch. I think this is their third appearance in as many years! Jun 1, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7 PG13
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7 PG13
Great route with unique experiences!! Pitch one is pretty fun but even if you do not place any gear in the first 15 feet (recommend NOT placing any gear hear to prevent rope drag); your rope can get stuck in a crack when you climb past the first big ledge so use gear to keep the rope from some heinous drag, it sucks. Pitch 2 is easy and fun. Pitch 3 I took the variation on the left face following a thin crack the opens and closes up; not too terribly difficult but heady for sure. Pitch 4 is pure fun and totally casual!! The tunnel pitch 5 is a cool experience and unique but fairly serious IMHO; not too hard but you sure as hell wouldn't want to slip on the slippery rock. The last pitch was the best pitch by far with super fun mini-roof moves that are a dream!! Have at it and have fun; just be a little careful. Mar 23, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Very mediocre IMHO. So many better routes in RR. Jan 1, 2007
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Enjoyed this climb a lot today. Started at 11am and was in the shade all day. Just for the sake of accuracy, the pair of bolts at the top of pitch 2 have had their hangers removed. It's not a big deal, there is a suitable vertical crack in that same location for use as a belay anchor. Some people link pitches 2 and 3. Aug 28, 2004
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
There is gear in the tunnel. You can't sew it up but I got two or three pieces in the back wall. Just look around... Apr 14, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
It's possible to get off-route at the start of pitch 2 if you select the righthand chimney. The comment in the Urioste guide on pitch 2 "bearing left where choices present themselves" should not be ignored. We bore right and ended up on "Stilgar's Wild Ride", but after a pitch you can wander back left and come back into Tunnel Vision before entering the tunnel. Apr 12, 2004
Jeff L.  
There is a new Variation to Tunnel Vision. A 4 bolt direct start (5.9) about 30 yards from the original line that will take you all the way to the 2nd station on Tunnel Vision with a 200 foot rope. Once at the 2nd Station look left for a bolt and continue up the crack. Remain in the crack and avoid the chimney (5.8) or after about 20 feet or so look left again and you should spot a bolt line running further left. This is a 2 pitch (5.7-5.8) bolted variation to Tunnel Vision that will take you to the platform belay at the entrance to the tunnel. Great way to avoid a conga line on Tunnel Vision. Mar 26, 2004