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> (06) White Rock…
> Angel Food Area
> Angel Food Wall
Eigerwand
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 11
votes
Routes in Angel Food Wall
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Domestic Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Glass Elevator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Healy's Haunted House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sandy Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tele-vision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tunnel vision / stilgar variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | John Long, Randal Grandstaff, Randy Marsh 1981 |
| Page Views: | 2,175 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Oct 20, 2008 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Pitch 1- begin up the initial corner of Sandy Hole and then climb left into a crack and shallow, brown dihedral. Climb this past some loose sections passing quite a bit of bail gear & slings to a gear belay at a fixed nut. (There are also slings around a very loose pillar which I wouldn't use or touch). Approx. 200 feet. 5.8
Pitch 2- Continue up the crack above and over a tricky bulge. The crack quickly runs out and when it does, move right and up on a white face past a good stopper placement and up onto a low angle slab. Once on the slab, climb right to join Sandy Hole and belay wherever looks good in this vicinity. 5.9
Pitch 3- Climb up and then right for about 25 feet to below a wide, splitter crack. This splitter climbs right over the tunneling pitch on Tunnel Vision. Unfortunately there are some unnecessary bolts below the splitter and before where you reach the belay below the tunneling pitch. These bolts are new and are placed next to a splitter 1.5" crack. It must be from the Tunnel Vision variation. 5.4
Pitch 4- Climb the wide splitter, then move left into a curving corner system. Belay from gear at the top of a pillar and nice ledge. 5.7
Pitch 5- Climb up a left facing corner for 20 feet until it steepens, then traverse left for 25 feet and up the corner above to the top of a pillar and belay from gear atop this pillar. 5.6
From the top of this pillar, it is an easy walk off descent. (The same descent as for Tunnel Vision).
Pitch 2- Continue up the crack above and over a tricky bulge. The crack quickly runs out and when it does, move right and up on a white face past a good stopper placement and up onto a low angle slab. Once on the slab, climb right to join Sandy Hole and belay wherever looks good in this vicinity. 5.9
Pitch 3- Climb up and then right for about 25 feet to below a wide, splitter crack. This splitter climbs right over the tunneling pitch on Tunnel Vision. Unfortunately there are some unnecessary bolts below the splitter and before where you reach the belay below the tunneling pitch. These bolts are new and are placed next to a splitter 1.5" crack. It must be from the Tunnel Vision variation. 5.4
Pitch 4- Climb the wide splitter, then move left into a curving corner system. Belay from gear at the top of a pillar and nice ledge. 5.7
Pitch 5- Climb up a left facing corner for 20 feet until it steepens, then traverse left for 25 feet and up the corner above to the top of a pillar and belay from gear atop this pillar. 5.6
From the top of this pillar, it is an easy walk off descent. (The same descent as for Tunnel Vision).
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