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Stilgar's Wild Ride
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | 1974 Joe Herbst & Bob Healy |
Page Views: | 5,598 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start up the first pitch of Tunnel Vision. Go up to the ledge below the first chimney. At this point, Tunnel Vision bears to the left, but Stilgar goes to the right, climbing a steep face and cracks past a belay/rap station about 40 feet up. Climb the deep chimney slot above, belaying when convenient. Continue up the chimney, which is not hard, but has limited protection opportunities. At the top of the chimney, where the crack narrows, exit to the left (which is easier than it looks) and belay. The next pitch goes up easy rock, then traverses left to belay in the alcove at the base of the tunnel on Tunnel Vision. Instead of spelunking, go up the right-facing dihedral system straight above, being careful to avoid rope drag. Continue up the crack system, with one or two thin spots, to the top of the wall.
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