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Routes in Angel Food Wall

Beheaded Burro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleeting Boldness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Foolish Man, Foolish Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Healy's Haunted House T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Killin' Time T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lean Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
On the prowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Within T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy Hole T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tele-vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,244 total, 29/month
Shared By: Will S on Nov 25, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a beautiful splitter crack angling right and passing through a small bulge near the top on a clean dark red wall. The tech crux may be the first ten feet starting in a bulging straight up crack that begins fist and wider for a few feet with sandy face holds on either side. At the obvious bulge about 3/4 height, the crack thins from hands down to rings and stacks for a move or two and then fingerlocks just above. At that point you can stem to the wall behind you and use it as the crack pinches off and facey climbing or stemming takes you to the top. There is some mystery fixed tat just before the topout that despite it's appearance, you may be happy to clip.

While the texture isn't bad on this, there is a nasty bit of fin/offset on the bottom on the crack through the middle section that chews on your wrist. Some guides give this 10d or 10+ which may be a bit of a sandbag.

Location

Just right of Group Therapy is a huge chimney system. On the left wall of the system is an obvious right slanting hand crack high on the wall. Start via a bulging straight up crack to gain the upper crack. Rap with two ropes via a single bolt + slung tunnel anchor.

Protection

Mostly tight hands to hands, thinning down to fingerlocks at the end. Set of wires and tcus, and cams to 3" with triples in #1,#2 camalot sizes and optional doubles in the #.5,#.75.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Really impressive line. Very sustained, fun, steep, and pumpy. It looks like it goes on forever from the ground, and the tight hands go on for ages. Although the rock in the first 20 feet will clean up with traffic, the rock quality for the rest of the route is quite good. An 80m rope can barely be used to toprope with a long cordalette, but will easily get you to the floor of the chimney on rappel. I recommend singles to C4 4 (skip the 3), doubles .5 and .75, and lots of 1s (I placed 4 C4 1s or green mastercams). The crack at the top thins out to your smallest cam sizes, but the wall at your back keeps things mellow. There is not a single 5.11 move on this route, but miles of 10 and 10+ jamming add up to a 11- pump. Jan 5, 2016