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Routes in Flying Buttress

A-M aidline T A2-3
All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's a Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: burcham/powell
Page Views: 4,955 total, 41/month
Shared By: markguycan on Dec 30, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

P1: 5.9 fingers to ow crack. P2: 5.11- climb diagonally left past thin crack to bolted, exposed face over arch. P3: 5.10 hands thru a roof, clip directional bolt then traverse left oonto face (do not climb 10+ bulge/ow.)P4: Climb past many bolts (mostly 5.10) then 5.11+ crux to sustained difficult terraine to bombay squeeze. P5: 5.8ish bolted traverse. P6: Climb 5.10 corner and ow to 4th class and summit!

Location

approach from "cowpies" trail head off schnebly. Climb is just right of the huge arch visible from the parking area.

Protection

double set to #3, single #3.5,#4. 10-12draws, 4-6slings.
Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Right at the crux on P4 there was a pretty sizable plate/flake(25" x 15"?) that was almost completely detached from the wall. Was this something new?

My partner led up to it, knew it was coming off if he bumped it, so he aided through the crux ensuring he wouldn't send it off flying directly at the belay(and me!).

I followed up and cleaned maybe 25 lbs off by simply tapping it with my food a handful of times. It all went straight down at the P3 belay(yikes!).

I'm just curious if this was new since it hasn't been mentioned before? It seemed like it was natural to use it through the crux for hands and feet. Not sure if the crux is harder or easier now..!

Also- Super rad route! All pitches were fun, with 2 & 4 being money! Those raps were more than likely the most fun I've ever done. Jun 8, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Give it a break with the green C3! You don't really need anything smaller than blue metolius. Excellent route! Nov 18, 2013
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
 
What an amazing climb! As far as rack i would bring singles from small to #4 C4 with 2 .5 C4s. No Nuts if you have a green c3. Linking pitches 2&3 was awesome and helped split crux's between leaders. BTW i would not call the last pitch an OW! There is one pod for a #4 higher up and a tricky slopy sandy move protected by bolts to start. Get on this thing! IT'S RAD Feb 27, 2013
dsmit
Flagstaff, Az
 
dsmit   Flagstaff, Az
 
This climb is super duper fun and well protected. In addition to the recommended rack I would add a blue Metolious size piece to help protect the moves getting to the first bolt on the second pitch. Worth a repeat. Furrrr Shurrr. Feb 5, 2013
jayci
Flagstaff
 
jayci   Flagstaff
 
One of the best I've done in Sedona so far! Watch out for the cactus after the last rap. very well thought out route! Feb 5, 2013
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
Additional Beta for finding the trailhead as this description leaves some to be desired.
Trailhead Directions: From the "Y" (the intersection of Highway 179 and Highway 89A) go south on Highway 179 about 0.3 mile to Schnebly Hill Road. Turn left on Schnebly Hill and proceed 3.5 miles. The trailhead parking is on your right. Use the far entrance to the parking area as the near entrance is very steep and you have a good chance of hitting the bottom of your vehicle. Schnebly Hill is paved for the first mile and the last 2.5 miles can be a very rough unpaved road. more about the trail here: greatsedonahikes.com/cowpie… Feb 5, 2011
Dean Hoffman  
 
What an amazing route! Second pitch was amazing! Actually the whole thing was amazing. We felt that while a single set would work we were glad to have doubles in just a few spots. Don't forget the 3.5 and 4. Crux on the crux pitch was wicked! Overall well protected and well thought out route. Go Do It!!! The rap alone will take your breath away and the last rap station just makes you laugh! Jan 11, 2010
Steve Skelton
Lyttelton, New Zealand
  5.11c
Steve Skelton   Lyttelton, New Zealand
  5.11c
I think if you're careful with your rope the second and third pitch could go as one, if you're in a hurry.
Only need a single rack to 4 on this climb.
XO Apr 3, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11c
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11c
Yet another great Burcham route. This climb has a bit of everything on it.

I second Manny's rack suggestions. May 16, 2008
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I think the pro could be whittled down to a single rack of cams up to #4 camalot (2 #3s) and med- lg nuts, 10 Quickdraws, 5 long runners. Lot of bolts on route. Do not fail to bring the 3,4 for the last pitch. Summit is worth the trip, as is the rap! May 2, 2008