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Routes in Flying Buttress

A-M aidline T A2-3
All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's a Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: M. Lawson, Bobbi Bensman, Chris Dunn 1983
Page Views: 3,421 total, 26/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Jan 10, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the best corners in Sedona. You can rap after the corner pitch, or if you feel guilty for having too much fun and want to pay your pennance, continue on to the top. It gets sun almost all day.

Pitch 1) 5.8 60' Ugly. Climb a junky pitch to the ledge at the base of the corner and build a belay. The belay takes #1 and #2 Camalots real well, but if you're trying to save this size a spot for a #3.5 can be found.

Pitch 2) 5.10 100' Beautiful. Jam or layback the corner with occasional rests. The corner takes a good variety of gear. The crux comes when the crack gets wide and juts out to the right. This move protects well with a new #5 Camalot or a #0.75 a bit earlier. After the crux set gear for your follower and traverse easily to the bolted anchor.

Pitch 3) 5.9R 150' Scary. Slab, slab and more slab. There are a lot of bolts on this pitch, but it seems like every time you look down you're 20' above one of them. Micro-route finding is tricky. The 5.9 crux is just before the second bolt, where a fall would send you flying way past your belayer. From the last bolt, traverse into a corner and pull onto an ugly ledge with a very difficult to set up belay.

Warning: all but 1 of the bolts on this pitch stick out from the wall a good inch and sport old homemade hangers.

Descent:
Rap 1: 150' Locate the hard-to-see bolts next to the big tree. Rap to the Pitch 2 anchors.
Rap 2: 120' into a group of hungry agaves.

Location

Drive up Schnebly Hill Road past the Moose's Butte, and park at the Cow Pie trail head. (you'll think you've gone too far.) Follow the Cow Pie trail as it contours left under a large cliff (home to Arch Enemy) twards the Flying Butress. Eventually you'll reach a saddle between the Teapot and the Flying Butress. Technicolor corner is the big obvious corner on the south face near the saddle.

Protection

3 each .75, 1, 2, 3 Camalot
1 each 4, 5 Camalot (new sizes!)
Consider an extra #2 or #4 (new) for the belay.
Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Wow pitch 2 was a beaut!

You can rap from the pitch 2 anchors to the ground with a 70m rope with just inches left. There is an opportunity to down climb an easy 8' dirt clod if you ended up a few feet short. Feb 28, 2016
Ryan Z
  5.10 R
Ryan Z  
  5.10 R
This is truly an incredible climb! P2 has to be one of the best corners in Sedona. Definitely ranks up there with Epitaph, Big Corner, and Tasmanian Devil. P3 is an incredible pitch of clean, beautiful, slab climbing. The slab pitch is very sustained and has great rock over all. If you are up for the challenge do not disregard it just because it is a little runout. I had no problem with my carabiners fitting into the hangers. I was using neutrinos and camp photon.

All things considered, a fall in many places on P3 would be a big one, but I am not convinced it would be overly dangerous. I didn't fall so I am not speaking from experience, It just didn't seem as bad as I had expected. I would be stoked to climb it again. Jan 31, 2014
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 R
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 R
Climbed this today to the top... P1 is something of an entrance fee and warmup for the business on P2. P2 is high-quality rock, great movement and protects well. The traverse to the anchors is intimidating from the crack, but climbs much easier than it looks. P3 is a beautiful pitch of slab climbing. If you are comfortable on Sedona sandstone slabs, honestly probably harder than 5.9 and not a lot of bolts for how long the pitch is. I think there were 6 bolts and a drilled piton in 160 feet, you do the math. The bolt spacing and possibly fragile nature of the hangers makes this a pitch you will not want to fall on, but the climbing was quite good, so if you are feeling up to the challenge, go for it! The rock quality on p2 and p3 was very good.. the rock felt clean and grippy for slab climbing on p3. I have a lot of respect for the first ascentionists of this route! Thanks for the vision and bold climbing and bolting. I belayed at the top of p3 off the tree right below the bolted rap anchors but redirected the rope past a bush and a .75 camalot placement so the rope was running above the last bolt on p3. If climbing p3, prepare to use a few 24" runners, as the rope drag with all standard length draws becomes significant.

Warm up on p1, get your blood flowing on burly p2, and find your center before casting off and surfing the sandstone nubs and edges of p3.

Not sure if the FA member above is serious about the hangers being made from a mailbox... but that is definately how they look... bring small carabiners as some of the holes on these hangers wouldnt accept my quickdraw biners. Feb 11, 2012
CJD
Chino Valley, AZ
  5.10 R
CJD   Chino Valley, AZ
  5.10 R
This is a true classic and the face pitch is the best! It is one of the nicest pitches in Sedona. It was scary on the FA and probably just as scary now. I can't believe nobody has ever replaced those old bolt hangers. I think Mike made them from an old mailbox. What can I say we were dirt poor. I suggest pulling them out and replacing them with baby angles. Of course that would be scary. They were all drilled from stances with no hooks so the replacement can be done without much shenanigans. Aug 22, 2007