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Routes in Flying Buttress

A-M aidline T A2-3
All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's a Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Burcham/Brennan
Page Views: 656 total · 11/month
Shared By: marcin ksok on Apr 24, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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A short, dirty(not loose), but interesting route with a straightforward and easy approach.
P1. Climb a corner/wide crack on the right side of the north face over sandy terrain to a ledge, traverse left to fixed anchor.
P.2 Continue left on the ledge under steeper terrain to a bulge(crux), climb the bulge and ledges to top. Sedona guidebook prompts to "hump the ridge to the top" yet I found no ridge there.


Follow directions to Flying Buttress and Arch Enemy. Anvil spire is the obvious feature, detached from the main formation left of Arch Enemy. Climb is located on the north side of the spire and well shaded. Single rope rap from anchors on top.


Few med-large cams.


Paul I believe the bolted climb is called eraser head, put up my Jake Daily ( may have spelled his the last name wrong) Nov 13, 2017
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
Nice little bonus scramble. I did some humping on this route for sure, but it was more like block humping than ridge humping. Some really awkward climbing on this. Theres no reason to do this in two pitches, one works fine.

Also did a super fun short .10+(??) route with 7 bolts on the spire directly facing this route. Anybody know what it is? Jan 24, 2015