All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Moose's Butte Area > Flying Buttress
All Systems Go
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Flying Buttress
|A-M aidline T A2-3|
|All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3|
|Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|It's a Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Marc Hemmes (and Josh Thompson on last pitch). 3/2000|
|Page Views:||1,188 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Marc Hemmes on Jul 12, 2009|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionAll Systems Go 5.9 C3 starts up Epitaph 5.9 and then traverses left into the stellar, overhanging, right facing dihedral wall of the Epitaph corner. Mostly high quality rock and great exposure awaits the clean aid climber.
P1- Climb the first pitch of Epitaph, fun 5.9 and then tension traverse left to a thin crack which is the start of ASG. Continue aiding up this thin crack past one bolt and belay at a nice little stance with two bolts. C2+ slider nuts, etc.
P2- Continue up the obvious overhanging crack system through a 00 TCU section and then pop out the lip of the roof to a bolt anchor. C1+ exposed.
P3- The view from here is fantastic. Follow the same crack system as it angles up and right and finally terminates at the top of an expanding flake. From here use 3/8" x 2" screws or dowels to aid up the dowel holes in the otherwise blank face. As the angle of the rock eases, jump out of your aiders and freeclimb(5.7) up and left past one bolt and belay at a bolted anchor on a horizontal dike. 5.7 C2 (could go free at 5.11R??).
P4- Freeclimb upwards and ascend the right facing corner above, pass a nice ledge and go to the top. 5.8
LocationFind your way to the base of Epitaph 5.9 and start on that route.
Rap the route using two 60M ropes. P3 is 120 Ft. and the P2 belay at the lip of the roof to ground is 60M.
ProtectionPLEASE LEAVE YOUR PINS AT HOME!
2 ea. from 00 TCU's to #3 Camalots with xtra #3 and 4 TCU's for P2(with some leapfrogging involved).
2 ea. #1 and 2 Slider Nuts.
1 set of Nuts.
3/8" x 2" dowels.
Duct Tape to cover the lip of roof as your partner is jugging up.
2 60M ropes to rap the route.
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