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Routes in Flying Buttress

A-M aidline T A2-3
All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's a Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dow Davis, Tim Steffan, 1989
Page Views: 582 total, 10/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Dec 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A good climb up the West nose of the Flying Buttress. Worth doing if in the neighborhood doing Technicolor Corner or Epitaph.
First pitch climbs a right facing dihedral with a very nice finger crack to a awkward roof, belay on limestone band from gear or rappel equipment 5.11-, 100 feet.
Second pitch climbs up crack to a large chimmney, Belay from bolts on left 5.10 PG 13, 80 feet.
One could continue to the top of the Flying Buttress via low angled terrain, but the climbing quality will deterioriate.

Location

It's a Breeze is just left of Technicolor Corner, above the saddle between the Flying Buttress and Tea Pot. Look for a clean right facing corner that ends in a roof below the limestone band. There is a left facing corner just left of It's a Breeze that you can toprope from gear just left of the the limestone belay. It's fun 5.10+ , but a suspect flake makes a lead a serious affair.

Protection

Trad rack with nuts, TCU's, cams to BD#4. Many fingers size on P1. Rap with one rope, a 60M might be long enough, we had a 70M. Chimney on pitch 2 essentially unprotected without a huge cam, but pretty easy, ~5.8. Pitch 1 has a fixed nut and thread for a rap anchor, Pitch 2 has 2 bolts with quick links for a rap anchor.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Pitch 1 was really fun climbing! I thought mid 5.10ish. More .75 size than fingers, but fun movement. Didn't do pitch 2 since pretty much everyone said it sucks, but with the anchor bolts on top of P1 it makes this a nice quick bonus if in the area.

My rack for the onsight of pitch 1 would be 2x .3-1 | 3x .5-.75 plus a 0 C3 for the first 12 feet. Feb 28, 2016
bio
mesa, az
bio   mesa, az
My comment is simple, pitch 1 is good, pitch 2 sucks. Dec 6, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
pitch 1 is more like low 5.10 and now sports a bolted belay/rap anchor. Dec 16, 2013