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Routes in Flying Buttress

A-M aidline T A2-3
All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's a Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: CJ Dunn 1983 with various partners. L.B., T. Steffen, A. McGuffy
Page Views: 98 total, 6/month
Shared By: CJD on Jul 17, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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The route has all kinds of climbing from thin face to cracks. It is a fun route but would be better and get more traffic with good anchors. It has been over thirty years since I did this so my memory is a little fuzzy on the specifics. For the first two pitches you are mostly climbing the face right of the corner. The fourth pitch (maybe the third?) starts by climbing some huecos into a little bomb bay chimney that is formed by a very thin flake that you have to eventually lieback on while trying not to break it off like a saltine cracker. I remember that pretty well because it was so "exciting."


This route follows the right slanting shallow corner system a couple hundred feet right of Epitaph. It does not top out due to choss above. The route is mostly moderate and good rock but we were pretty stingy on the bolts and anchors. The anchor on top of the third pitch (maybe the second?) was a tied off baby angle and a stopper hammered into a seam. To make matters worse it was a hanging belay! I may have used some classic Bandito "BAD BOLT" aluminum hangars for some protection bolts too. Again, we were poor starving college students and it was the 80's when we did this sort of stuff. I would support somebody replacing the old bolts and adding belay/rappel anchors.

Descent: 2 ropes 2 raps. There were fixed nuts left at the top of the 4th pitch to rap off (obviously the slings would not be good now after 30+ years) down to a single bolt (I believe it was a protection bolt on the second pitch that may be suspect now) then to the ground.


Needs some rap anchors on top of the 4th pitch and maybe some other bolts replaced. There are only a few bolts on the route. Otherwise standard Sedona rack but not lots of big stuff.


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