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Routes in Flying Buttress

A-M aidline T A2-3
All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
All Systems Go (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dune S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eraserhead Spire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
It's a Breeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Elevation: 5,539 ft
GPS: 34.877, -111.726 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,821 total · 82/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Jan 10, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

This is the long and beautiful butress east of Moose's Butte. It holds the classic routes Eptaph and Technicolor Corner, among others.

Getting There

Drive up Schnebly Hill Road past the Moose's Butte, and park at the Cow Pie trail head. (you'll think you've gone too far.) Follow the Cow Pie trail as it contours left under a large cliff (home to Arch Enemy) twards the Flying Butress. Eventually you'll reach a saddle between the Teapot and the Flying Butress. Technicolor corner is the big obvious corner on the south face near the saddle, and Epitaph is the huge roof you can see on the west face farther down.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Flying Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
 3
All Systems Go
Aid 4 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Epitaph
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 19
Technicolor Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 4
It's a Breeze
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Dune
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 27
Arch Enemy
Trad, Sport 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
All Systems Go
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3 Aid 4 pitches
Epitaph
 34
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Technicolor Corner
 19
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches
It's a Breeze
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Dune
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Arch Enemy
 27
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Flying Buttress »

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Tim Heid   AZ
Does anyone know what the route just to the left of Technicolor Corner is? They would likely share the same first pitch. It looked rad! Mar 1, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Hey Tim. Believe that is a old line that was equipped possibly by M.Childers et al. Steep gear to some bolts that avoid a giant flake. I had heard that it was abandoned because of the flake or that they added bolts to avoid it?? Not sure though. Maybe some free climbing?? Im just guessing though... Mar 1, 2016
Tim Heid   AZ
Sweet, thanks for the info Jeff! Yeah - there were 2 new bolts in the upper section and a 2 bolt anchor just above that. Mar 2, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Yeah sounds accurate. The more I thought about it the more unsure I became about who put the bolts in though... Maybe that Floater guy knows. Mar 2, 2016

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